we arrived here early this morning. the magnificent streets and number of fine buildings shew that this has formerly been a rich and flourishing city. the present inhabitants, however, who are very few in proportion to the extent of the town, bear every mark of poverty.
the happiness of the subjects in a despotic government depends much more on the personal character of the sovereign, than in a free state; and the subjects of little princes, who have but a small extent of territory, are more affected by the good and bad qualities of those princes, than the inhabitants of great and extensive empires. i had frequent opportunities of making this remark in germany, where, without having seen the prince,[286] or heard his character, one may often discover his dispositions and turn of mind, from examining into the circumstances and general situation of the people. when the prince is vain and luxurious, as he considers himself equal in rank, so he endeavours to vie in magnificence with more powerful sovereigns, and those attempts always terminate in the oppression and poverty of his subjects; but when the prince, on the other hand, is judicious, active, and benevolent, as the narrow limits of his territories make it easy for him to be acquainted with the real situation and true interest of his subjects, his good qualities operate more directly and effectually for their benefit, than if his dominions were more extensive, and he himself obliged to govern by the agency of ministers.
the duchy of ferrara was formerly governed by its own dukes, many of whom happened to be of the character last mentioned, and the ferrarese was, for several[287] generations, one of the happiest and most flourishing spots in italy. in the year 1597 it was annexed to the ecclesiastical state, and has ever since been gradually falling into poverty and decay. it must be owing to some essential error in the government, when a town like this, situated in a fertile soil, upon a navigable river near the adriatic, remains in poverty. except the change of its sovereign, all the other causes, which i have heard assigned for the poverty of ferrara, existed in the days of its prosperity.
though the citizens of ferrara have not been able to preserve their trade and industry, yet they still retain an old privilege of wearing swords by their sides. this privilege extends to the lowest mechanics, who strut about with great dignity. fencing is the only science in a flourishing condition in this town, which furnishes all the towns in italy with skilful fencing-masters. ferrara was famous formerly[288] for a manufactory of sword-blades. the scotch highlanders, who had a greater demand for swords, and were nicer in the choice of their blades than any other people, used to get them from a celebrated maker in this town, of the name of andrea di ferrara. the best kind of broadswords are still called by the highlanders true andrew ferraras.
there are two brass statues opposite to one of the principal churches. one is of nicholo marquis of este, and the other of borso of este, the first duke of ferrara, whose memory is still held in great veneration in this city. i had the curiosity to go to the benedictine church, merely to see the place where ariosto lies buried. the degree of importance in which men are held by their cotemporaries and by posterity, is very different. this fine fanciful old bard has done more honour to modern italy, than forty-nine in fifty of the popes and princes to which she has given birth,[289] and while those, who were the gaze of the multitude during their lives, are now entirely forgotten, his fame increases with the progress of time. in his lifetime, perhaps, his importance, in the eyes of his countrymen, arose from the protection of the family of este; now he gives importance, in the eyes of all europe, to the illustrious names of his patrons, and to the country where he was born.
the emperor, and two of his brothers, lodged lately at the inn where we now are. our landlord is so vain of this, that he cannot be prevailed on to speak on any other subject; he has entertained me with a thousand particulars about his illustrious guests; it is impossible he should ever forget those anecdotes, for he has been constantly repeating them ever since the royal brothers left his house. i asked him what we could have for supper. he answered, that we should sup in the very same room in which his imperial majesty had dined.[290] i repeated my question; and he replied, he did not believe there were three more affable princes in the world. i said, i hoped supper would be soon ready; and he told me, that the archduke was fond of fricassee, but the emperor preferred a fowl plain roasted. i said, with an air of impatience, that i should be much obliged to him if he would send in supper. he bowed, and walked to the door; but, before he disappeared, he turned about and assured me, that although his majesty ate no more than an ordinary man, yet he paid like an emperor.
to perpetuate the memory of this great event, of the emperor and his two brothers having dined at this house, the landlord got an ecclesiastic of his acquaintance to compose the following pompous inscription, which is now engraven upon a stone at the door of his inn.
quod
taberna h?c diversoria
hospites habuerit tres fratres
consiliis, moribus, et in deum pietate,
pr?claros,
mari? theres. bohemi? et hung.
regin?, &c. &c.
et tant? matris virtuti simillimos
maximilianum austri? archiducem,
cen? et quietatis causa,
tertio calend. junii m.dcc.lxxv.
die postero prandium sumpturos
petrum leop. magn. hetruc. ducem,
et josephum secund. rom. imperatorem,
seculi nostri ornamentum et decus,
ne temporis longitudo
hujusce loci felicitatem obliteret
perenne hoc monumentum.
no three persons ever acquired immortality on easier terms: it has only cost them one night’s lodging at an indifferent inn, when better quarters could not be had.
