[this article from miss connor, written from malaga last summer, having been mislaid, after its reception, is published at this time as not without interest, notwithstanding the delay.—ed.]
the streets of malaga always present an animated appearance. one never sees here that dead calm which pervades many of our northern cities in midsummer. at all hours of the day the air resounds with the sonorous voices of men and boys calling out whatever they may have to sell. fish of all kinds, fruits, live turkeys and many other things may be obtained in this way, with the additional entertainment of listening to a loud and heated discussion between the servant and vender regarding the price. if the latter chances to be a boy, he summons a flood of tears to his assistance, having acquired, as a part of his occupation, the faculty of crying when occasion demands. the servant, accustomed to mechanical weeping, is immovable and the youthful imposter is finally compelled to receive a fair price for his wares.
every afternoon at five o’clock, an old man with a bright, cheerful face passes our window calling out “barquillos” in a clear, musical voice which makes itself heard at a long distance. the children crowd around him while he takes from a green box strapped over his shoulder, a tube made of light paste, on one end of which he puts a white foamy substance, composed of the whites of eggs and sugar. at this juncture, the little ones become frantic and jostle each other in a most unceremonious manner, in their eagerness to possess the delicate morsel. each one is served and the poor old man goes on his way rejoicing ever the few quartas which will buy his daily bread. barquillos are also obtained at restaurants as an accompaniment for ices, and seem to be relished by children of a larger growth, as well as others.
the business of the ware houses commences at an early hour and continues through the day; carts drawn by mules are constantly passing while the industrious little donkeys may be seen marching in a line, following their leader, who has a bell to announce his coming. during the vintage, long lines of donkeys laden with boxes of raisins come from the vineyards, horses never being used except in cabs and private carriages. the cab horses are poor, old animals which seem to have lived as long as nature intended, but are kept alive by some mysterious agency, and by dint of much urging and whipping manage to move at a slow pace. one day, when we were taking a drive, the horse suddenly stopped and the driver dismounted. to our inquiry, as to the cause of delay he replied, “no es nada” (it is nothing), resumed his seat and we started again, but had not proceeded far when the animal absolutely refused to go; this time we insisted upon alighting and were coolly informed that the horse was only a little cansado (tired). many more instances might be cited illustrating the manner in which dumb animals are abused in a country where there are no laws prohibiting it, or if such laws exist they are not enforced.
the animation prevailing through the day by no means diminishes as night approaches, although of a very different character. at twilight, the higher classes sally forth to the alameda 227or muelle (mole), to enjoy the refreshing breeze from the sea, while those of lower estate seek some place of rendezvous and indulge in their idle gossip. an occasional troubadour steals to some obscure corner and sends forth plaintive sounds from his faithful guitar, not unfrequently some youthful swain is inspired to add the charms of his voice, and the “malaguenas” bursts forth in all its primative sweetness. the enthusiasm of the spaniards on hearing their national airs is something remarkable, they become quite wild with excitement and applaud in the most vociferous manner. foreigners, also, who have spent some time in the country, share this enthusiasm, which seems to be caused more by a certain rhythmical peculiarity, than by any extraordinary merit of the music itself.
the romantic days of spain are past, when the lover stood beneath the balcony of his sweetheart, wooing her with the gentle strains of his guitar. to us it seems a matter of regret that this ancient custom no longer exists, but it undoubtedly relieves many anxious parents as it particularly favored clandestine courtships. a spanish gentleman of our acquaintance who is blessed with seven daughters, and occupies a house containing twenty balconies, congratulates himself upon the change in love-making as it would be impossible to keep watch over all, even by constantly rushing from one balcony to another. at the present day the suitor is admitted to the salon, where he may converse with the object of his affections, but always in the presence of her parents. spanish mammas would be shocked at the freedom allowed american girls in receiving visits from the opposite sex and accepting their escort to places of entertainment.
the feast of corpus christi was celebrated in malaga with much eclat. for two weeks previous preparations were going on for the fair, which takes place at this time, booths being arranged on one side of the alameda and filled with a variety of articles, useful and ornamental, calculated to please the eye and lighten the pockets of passers-by, while others were provided with these substantial things needful to satisfy the wants of the inner man. at night the alameda was most brilliantly illuminated by long lines of lights extending the whole length on either side, also across the centre at intervals, with occasional circles and clusters, producing a most dazzling effect. at each end, in front of the fountains were erected two pavillions, one under the direction of a club styled the “circulo mercantil,” the other by the members of the “lycio” both of which were handsomely decorated with flags and flowers and provided with comfortable seats. we availed ourselves of the opportunity to attend the balls given in these pavillions, and found them exceedingly diverting. in the centre, a space was reserved for the dancers, who tripped the “light fantastic” with apparent enjoyment, notwithstanding the disadvantages of little room and much heat. the toilettes of the ladies were varied and elegant, displaying a taste which would do credit to worth himself, while the national costume, worn by a few young ladies, far exceeded the most charming conceptions of that famous artist. this costume, called the “maja,” is extremely picturesque, especially when combined with the piquant faces and nonchalant airs of the spanish girls. it consists of a skirt of bright red or blue satin, edged with a broad trimming of black chenille; with this is worn a black velvet bodice, the hair is arranged in finger puffs, with a high comb placed jauntily on one side, and a few flowers gracefully twined among the dark tresses; a spanish mantilla, and laced slippers, just disclosed beneath the short skirt, complete this beautiful costume, rich in fabric, but simple in design, and above all allowing a graceful freedom which our present straight laced fashions render 228impossible. weary of the brilliancy and animation of the ballroom, we passed to the garden where tables were arranged for refreshments, and amid the sound of inspiring music and the gentle murmur of the fountain, partook of delicate viands served by attentive waiters. the arrangement of these pavillions was perfect in every respect, contributing in the highest degree to the comfort of the guests, and long shall we bear in remembrance the pleasant evenings they afforded us.
on corpus christi day a long and imposing procession marched through the principal streets, carrying an image of the “virgin” robed in black velvet elaborately embroidered in gold, and a large “custodia” of solid silver containing the “host.” the clergy, in their clerical gowns, with their faces plump and glossy, walked along in a self-satisfied manner, confident of good cheer in this world, whatever may await them in another. the civil and military authorities added their dignified presence, followed by a large concourse of people with wax candles. the streets and balconies were filled with men, women, and children of all ages and classes, every available space being occupied. in the afternoon a bull fight took place, and a ball in the evening ended the programme of the day.
in the midst of the festivities of the week, the queen’s illness was announced, causing a suspension of all gayety, and her subsequent death was followed by a season of mourning. the alameda was stripped of its superfluous adornings, and the sound of music no longer filled the air with its sweet harmonies. funeral services were solemnized in the cathedral, and many a fervent prayer ascended to heaven for the repose of the dead, and the resignation of the bereaved young king.
the end
