however strange may appear the statement, yet we have no hesitation in saying that one of the greatest steps ever made in economy in giving dinner-parties was the introduction into this country of the dinner à la russe. it will be our endeavour in the present article both to prove and illustrate this point by contrasting a small dinner-party of thirty or forty years ago with a modern one. as we have already remarked, our observations are intended to apply to those whose status in society may be best described as possessing neither poverty nor riches. we will suppose the number of persons at dinner to be about ten or a dozen.
my mind now goes back to some people i knew very well in my younger days, and who will make admirable representatives of a very large portion of the backbone of english society: exceedingly kind, generous, and hospitable, but whose ideas of cooking contained a strong element of contempt for what they called—recollect, i am speaking of thirty years ago—french messes.
the time is soon after christmas, and the party a 80family one. the boys of the party, in their large white collars outside their jackets, look flushed and happy, and may be seen furtively looking from time to time at a bright yellow coin, which they keep in their waistcoat pockets—the coin in question being a recent “tip” in the shape of a christmas-box from the stout and hospitable host.
but dinner is announced, and we soon find ourselves seated round a large table that may almost be said literally to groan with the weight of the good things placed on it.
first, some good mock-turtle soup—no doubt about it being a jelly when cold—a sort of soup that, in the present day of beards and moustachios, would require some care in taking.
next the cover is taken off a huge cod-fish, big enough to have swallowed jonah himself when he was a little boy, handed round with which was some oyster sauce as it should be, containing oysters in numbers. ah! the very memory of it makes us heave a deep sigh. good oysters could then be obtained at four-pence a dozen, and now—three shillings a dozen.
the present chancellor of the exchequer might well bring in a poll-tax on the men who eat oysters.
next the four entrées were uncovered, and the silver lids taken out of the room, for the handles to be unscrewed, the dishes wiped, rubbed with a leather 81for a minute, and then they made four new silver dishes for the sweets. the entrées were as follows:—oyster patties, curried rabbit, stewed kidneys, and what used to be called a beef olive—which consisted of a steak rolled with veal stuffing, and some very thick brown gravy poured over it.
after all these had been partially consumed, the covers were taken off what is termed the pièce de résistance, which consisted of a huge sirloin of beef, looking somewhat like the host himself, fat and jolly, with scraped horseradish instead of grey hair; or perhaps a fine haunch of mutton, with a paper frill round its wrist, something like a lady’s cuff.
at the other end of the table were generally two large capons, with a boiled tongue between them; beside which, two side-dishes, the one a pigeon pie, and the other a small york ham.
we will not go on to describe the second course. as a rule, lady housekeepers have no difficulty in superintending this part of the dinner. there are hundreds and thousands of ladies who can make a splendid dish of trifle or a mould of jelly, who would not have the slightest idea of gravy. it was but yesterday i was dining out where the gravy was handed round, which looked and tasted like pale, weak beef-tea, which in truth it was.
at other places, too, cooks seem to think that 82when gravy is required, all they have to do is to put a little of the soup in the sauce-tureen, and send it up.
we would inform them that soup and gravy are two distinct things. perhaps at some future period we may have a whole article on gravy, for gravy is a very weak point with inexperienced cooks.
but to return to the dinner above-mentioned. we do not for one moment wish it to be understood that we complain of it. it is a sort of dinner that makes people, when they come home late in the evening, at any rate feel they have dined, and do not, as is too often the case after some of those large dinners where fruit, flowers, and ice abound, on their arrival want a sandwich and glass of sherry or brandy and soda before going to bed. what we do maintain is that it is exceedingly expensive, and that a handsome little dinner à la russe can be served up for less than half the money.
one strange thing in connection with the subject is that when the à la russe style was first introduced into this country, nearly all those persons who may be described generally as homely people, who make a point of always keeping well in the wake of fashion rather than the van, we say those persons had an idea that the new style was very elegant, but that they could not afford it. we believe that there is still an impression abroad that a dinner à la russe must 83necessarily be a very expensive affair; we will therefore proceed to describe a cheap but nice-looking little dinner, and, if space permit, how to make the dishes.
in the first place, flowers, like mrs. scratchit’s ribbons, make a great show for sixpence. where there is a good garden, there ought to be no difficulty in making a dinner-table look nice. all that is required is a little taste. it is well to bear in mind, however, that in selecting flowers, dark-green leaves and the colour blue or violet should not be forgotten. we will suppose, therefore, the table arranged: the dessert and plenty of flowers, and nothing else, for we do not believe in the modern compromise so often seen—i.e., some dishes placed on the table, as well as the dessert.
now for the dinner. first—say the time of the year be the present—julienne soup, bright as sherry, with just a taste of tarragon in it; a turbot or brill, with lobster sauce; a dish of chicken cutlets, white as snow, with little small green and red leaves in the centre of each, about half an inch long, and a little red lobster-claw representing the bone, served in a silver dish, with aspic jelly piled up in the centre. another entrée of eggs and spinach—always a pretty-looking dish—some lobster cutlets, and some rissoles. next a haunch of mutton—i.e., a small roast leg of mutton cut outside the room haunch-fashion, parallel with the bone—and red-currant jelly handed with it. 84in small households, where a large quantity of cold meat is undesirable, this is far preferable to a large haunch, and of course it is exactly the same thing, so far as taste and appearance are concerned, when cut. next, by way of game, have some roast larks, served up in little paper cups containing a rich forcemeat.
only one fowl, and that a moderate-sized one, will be necessary to make both the chicken cutlets and the rissoles. we will now calculate roughly the saving in this dinner when compared with the old-fashioned one we have mentioned.
in the first place, julienne soup can be made far cheaper than mock-turtle; but we will leave the question of the cost of the soup out altogether. next the fish; here again the saving only consists in the fact that it is possible to have a small fish when it is not put on the table, but impossible to have only just enough when it is. now, warmed-up fish is never nice, yet how often do we see a splendid turbot or cod-fish go down, not a quarter of it eaten!
a cod-fish, by-the-by, is not a particularly easy dish for a cook to serve properly done and yet looking really nice. i shall never forget the look of dismay on a certain face when the cover was taken off a remarkably fine cod that had been specially sent down from a famous city fishmonger. the cook, too, was really a good one, and knew that raw cod-fish is simply 85uneatable. probably the man, in bringing up the fish, had shaken the dish somewhat roughly, or set it down on the table with too much of a bang. however, the whole of the meat had fallen from the bones in a sort of shower on to the dish, and the gaunt skeleton remained alone, an awful sight, like some of those pictures of the desert with the remains of a camel being hovered over by one or two vultures. in fact, it looked so exceedingly ridiculous that nearly every one laughed, in which laughter the host wisely joined. it was indeed a pretty kettle of fish!
it is, however, in the entrées and joints where the great saving will be found. first let us roughly guess the cost of the old dinner: sirloin of beef, or haunch, about 14lb., 14s., taking of course present prices; two capons, 10s.; tongue, 6s. 6d.; small ham, 12s.; pigeon pie, say 3s. 6d., which would be cheap; oyster patties, eight at 6d. each, 4s.; beef olive, 2lb. of steak, &c., 2s. 6d.; curried rabbit, the rabbit being 1s. 6d., 2s.; stewed kidneys, say 1s. 6d. now this all added up comes to ￡2 16s. next let us take the other dinner: one fowl, 3s. 6d.; mushrooms, one tin, 9d.; cream, 3d.; lobster, 2s.; eggs and spinach, 1s; leg of mutton, 8lb., 8s.; calf’s liver for forcemeat, 3d.; larks, one dozen, 1s. 6d.; about 1?lb. of ham or bacon, 1s. 6d.; which, added up, comes to 17s. 9d.
86of course it will be said that in the first dinner there was plenty left to keep the house for several days, and in the second but very little. this is perfectly true; but it is this of which i complain. the old-fashioned style was, when ten people came to dinner, to cook enough for thirty. this seems to me to be folly. of course some allowance must be made for the character of the visitors; the little dinner à la russe we have mentioned would be exceedingly unsuited to hungry schoolboys, or an agricultural labourers’ feast; but then one doesn’t ask these sorts of people to late dinners. the average guest is one who has had a substantial lunch—in the case of ladies—or one whose appetite is jaded with worry and anxiety, and requires a certain amount of tickling. the same dinner would not do for a dealer on the stock exchange, and a healthy country gentleman, who spends half his time on horseback, and has not a care in the world. we mention this, as one of the arts of giving dinners is to adapt the dinner to the guests, and the guests to one another.
but we must now turn to the practical part, which is, how to make the chicken cutlets, &c. first, early on the morning previous to the dinner, boil the fowl in some clear stock or some water; take it out and let it get cold; cut off all the meat, cutting the breast into thin slices; scrape all the bones, and place the 87latter back in the stock to boil down. if water has been used, the usual vegetables must be placed in—viz., an onion stuck with six cloves, a small head of celery, a turnip, carrot, a bunch of parsley, and pepper and salt. when the whole is reduced to about a quart, strain it carefully off; remove every particle of fat, and if not clear, clear it with the white of two eggs, by whipping them up with a little cold water, adding them to the stock, boiling briskly for a few minutes, and then running the whole through a jelly-bag. next, again place the stock in an enamelled saucepan, and let it boil down to about a pint. take a third of this and put it into a little enamelled stew-pan for the aspic jelly. now, this jelly requires rather a decided flavour; add therefore a couple of beads of garlic, and let these simmer sufficiently long to give the stock—one-third of a pint—what may be called a foreign smell. the fowl-bones will probably have been sufficient to cause this to set into a firm jelly when poured out on to a plate and allowed to get cold; should, however, it not be firm enough, a little gelatine must be added to it. should the jelly require a little colour, a small piece of toasted bread, such as is used for toast-and-water, will be found best for the purpose—of course put in when the jelly is hot. when the jelly is set, it must be cut up—two silver forks are best for the purpose—and piled up in the 88centre of the silver dish, for the chicken cutlets to be placed round it.
next we have two-thirds of a pint of strong stock left in the saucepan. add to this about half an ounce of gelatine and a couple of bay-leaves, and let it boil till the gelatine is quite dissolved; take out the bay-leaves, and pour it off into a basin, and take off any little scum that may have risen from the gelatine. next pour some cream—about half a tumbler—into an enamelled saucepan; as soon as it begins to boil, pour the warm stock on it, take it off the fire, stir with a spoon for a few minutes, and pour it into a small basin for use. now this white sauce, which is exceedingly nice, when cold will be a hard jelly, looking like blancmange.
next take the slices of chicken and a few thin slices of ham, pour a little of the white sauce on to a plate, and before it has time to cool, cover the plate with very thin slices of chicken; dip the ham into the stock, and spread it over the chicken, again covering the ham with some more thin slices of chicken. cover the whole, by means of a spoon, with some more white sauce, taking care to leave a little sauce for use afterwards.
now when all this sets, which it will do very quickly, it becomes like a large white cake, barely half an inch thick. cut this white cake into little oval 89pieces, the size and shape of the lobster cutlets, with a sharp penknife; take up each cutlet carefully, and with a small spoon, or end of a silver knife, cover the edges with the white sauce, which must be nearly set. next cut some tiny green leaves out of some pickled gherkins, and some red leaves out of some beetroot, or the red skin of a chilli, and place four little leaves, two of each in the centre of each cutlet, star-shaped; a drop of white sauce will make it stick. place a little piece of parsley, not much bigger than a pin’s head, in the centre of the star; stick a little lobster-claw, three-quarters of an inch long, in each cutlet, and place them in a silver dish, round the aspic jelly, with a small piece of fresh, bright-green parsley between each cutlet, by way of garnish; and few prettier dishes can be handed round than the one in question.
the dish is somewhat troublesome, but then its appearance repays the trouble, besides which it does not require much standing over the fire. the latter part can be done sitting down. the basin containing the white sauce can be placed in a larger basin containing hot water, to prevent it setting too soon.
instead of beetroot, a thin leaf of truffle looks much better, in which case a red bead of lobster-coral should be placed in the centre of the star, instead of the parsley. however, recommending truffle is rather 90useless, for the simple reason that persons rich enough to use them generally keep a cook, to whom these instructions would be unnecessary.
the next point is the rissoles. take all the remains of the fowl—i.e., about half—taking great care that no pieces of bone or skin remain, and chop it up with half the tin of mushrooms, and a good slice of fat ham. chop up separately, very finely, a piece of onion about as big as the top of the finger down to the first joint; sufficient parsley, when chopped, to fill a tea-spoon; enough thyme to cover a sixpence; add a little cayenne pepper and salt. mix the whole well together, and if a sausage-machine is in the house, of course run it through it; but if not, some pains and time must be spent over the chopping. roll it up into small balls, dip them first into some well-beaten-up egg, and then into some fine bread-crumbs, and fry; and serve with some gravy poured round, exactly as the mutton cutlets were done in the previous article, though of course these rissoles are far superior to those made from mutton.
next with regard to the forcemeat for the paper cases for the larks. these paper cases can be bought at the pastrycook’s, but they are easily made at home, much cheaper, out of stiff note-paper. take a quarter of a pound of calf’s liver, cut it up into small pieces, and fry in about the same quantity of rather fat ham. 91chop up finely a bead of garlic, a piece of lemon-peel the size of the first finger-nail, a tea-spoonful of parsley, and the remaining half of the tin of mushrooms; add a little cayenne pepper and some salt, and enough aromatic mixed herbs to cover a sixpence (these herbs are composed of white peppercorns, cloves, one portion; marjoram, basil, thyme, nutmeg, mace, half a portion; dried bay-leaves, a quarter of a portion; well pounded and sifted, and put by in a stoppered bottle for use). chop the whole very finely, and put it by in a small stew-pan to keep hot till wanted. place a dessert-spoonful of this rich forcemeat at the bottom of each paper case. the paper cases should have the chill taken off them, by being placed before the fire for a minute. then place a small roast lark on the top of each case.
larks take only about ten minutes or a quarter of an hour to roast, according to their size, and ought to be eaten directly they are cooked. the cases should be placed in a silver dish, with parsley between them. this is a very savoury dish, and at the same time a very cheap substitute for game for a dozen people. should there be no mixed herbs ready, a little nutmeg and mace will be found to flavour the forcemeat sufficiently for ordinary purposes.
of course, in comparing the above two dinners, we have purposely taken rather extreme cases. what we 92would impress upon housekeepers is that many of these pretty, savoury little dishes, though they may give considerable trouble, are nevertheless very cheap. by simply looking ahead for a day or two, and a little industry on the part of others in the house than the cook only, a dinner often may be given combining elegance with strict economy.
