the english farmer.
there are few things which give one such a feeling of the prosperity of the country, as seeing the country people pour into a large town on market-day. there they come, streaming along all the roads that lead to it from the wide country round. the footpaths are filled with a hardy and homely succession of pedestrians, men and women, with their baskets on their arms, containing their butter, eggs, apples, mushrooms, walnuts, nuts, elderberries, blackberries, bundles of herbs, young pigeons, fowls, or whatever happens to be in season. there are boys and girls too, similarly loaded, and also with baskets of birds’ nests in spring, cages of young birds, and old birds, baskets of tame rabbits, and bunches of cowslips, primroses, and all kinds of flowers and country productions imaginable. the carriage-road is equally alive, with people riding and driving along; farmers and country gentlemen, country clergymen, parish overseers, and various other personages, drawn to the market-town by some real or imagined business, are rattling forward on horseback, or in carriages of various kinds, gigs, and spring-carts, and carts without springs. there are carriers’ wagons, and covered carts without end, many of them shewing from their open fronts, whole troops of women snugly seated; while their dogs chained beneath, go struggling and[88] barking along, pushing their heads forward in their collars every minute as if they would hang themselves. this is in the morning; and in the afternoon you see them pouring out again, and directing their course to many a far-off hamlet and old-fashioned abode. but there is a wide difference between coming in and going out. the wagons and carts go heavily and soberly, for they are laden with good solid commodities, groceries and draperies, mops, brushes, hardware and crockery, newspapers for the politicians, and sundry parcels of teas, sugars, and soaps, and such et ceteras, for the village shops; but the farmers go riding and driving out three times as fast as they came in, for they are primed with good dinners and strong beer. they have chaffered, and smoked, and talked with the great grazier and the great corn-factor, and their horses are full of corn too, and away they go, in fours and fives, filling the whole width of the road, and raising a dust, if there be the least dust to be raised, or making the mud fly in all directions; away they go, talking all together, while their horses are trotting at such a pace as one would think would shake the very teeth out of their heads. the sober foot-people who are trudging homeward more soberly than they came, say, as they fly past, “one wouldn’t think times very bad neither.” and the carriers hold their horses’ heads as they rush past, and smiling significantly, say, just as they are gone past,—“well done my lads! that’s it; go it my lads, go it! yo riden, though your horses go a-foot!”
there is no class of men, if times are but tolerably good, that enjoy themselves so highly as farmers. they are little kings. their concerns are not huddled into a corner, as those of the town tradesman are. in town, many a man who turns thousands of pounds per week, is hemmed in close by buildings, and cuts no figure at all. a narrow shop, a contracted warehouse, without an inch of room besides to turn him, on any hand; without a yard, a stable, or outhouse of any description; perhaps hoisted aloft, up three or four pair of dirty stairs, is all the room that the wealthy tradesman often can bless himself with; and there, day after day, month after month, year after year, he is to be found, like a bat in a hole of a wall, or a toad in the heart of a stone, or of an oak tree. spring, and summer, and autumn, go round; sunshine and flowers spread over the world; the sweetest breezes blow, the[89] sweetest waters murmur along the vales, but they are all lost upon him; he is the doleful prisoner of mammon, and so he lives and dies. the farmer would not take the wealth of the world on such terms. his concerns, however small, spread themselves out in a pleasant amplitude both to his eye and heart. his house stands in its own stately solitude; his offices and outhouses stand round extensively, without any stubborn and limiting contraction; his acres stretch over hill and dale; there his flocks and herds are feeding; there his labourers are toiling,—he is king and sole commander there. he lives amongst the purest air and the most delicious quiet. often when i see those healthy, hardy, full-grown sons of the soil going out of town, i envy them the freshness and the repose of the spots to which they are going. ample old-fashioned kitchens, with their chimney-corners of the true, projecting, beamed and seated construction, still remaining; blazing fires in winter, shining on suspended hams and flitches, guns supported on hooks above, dogs basking on the hearth below; cool, shady parlours in summer, with open windows, and odours from garden and shrubbery blowing in; gardens wet with purest dews, and humming at noon-tide with bees; and green fields and verdurous trees, or deep woodlands lying all round, where a hundred rejoicing voices of birds or other creatures are heard, and winds blow to and fro, full of health and life-enjoyment. how enviable do such places seem to the fretted spirits of towns, who are compelled not only to bear their burthen of cares, but to enter daily into the public strife against selfish evil and ever-spreading corruption. when one calls to mind the simple abundance of farm-houses, their rich cream and milk, and unadulterated butter, and bread grown upon their own lands, sweet as that which christ broke, and blessed as he gave to his disciples; their fruits ripe and fresh plucked from the sunny wall, or the garden bed, or the pleasant old orchard; when one casts one’s eyes upon, or calls to one’s memory the aspect of these houses, many of them so antiquely picturesque, or so bright-looking and comfortable, in deep retired valleys, by beautiful streams, or amongst fragrant woodlands, one cannot help saying with king james of scotland, when he met johnny armstrong:—
what want these knaves that a king should have?
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but they are not outward and surrounding advantages merely, which give zest to the life of the farmer. he is more proud of it, and more attached to it, than any other class of men, be they whom they may, are of theirs. the whole heart, soul, and being of the farmer are in his profession. the members of other professions and trades, however full they may be of their concerns, have their mouths tied up by the etiquette of society. a man is not allowed to talk of his trade concerns except at the risk of being laughed at, and being set down as an egotistic ignoramus. but who shall laugh at or scout the farmer for talking of his concerns? of nothing else does he, in nine cases out of ten, think, talk, or care. and though he may be called a bore by all other classes, what concerns it him? for other classes are just as great bores to him, and he seeks not their company. the farmers are a large class, and they associate and converse principally with each other. “their talk is of bullocks,” it is true, but to them it is the most interesting talk of all. what is so delightful to them as to meet at each other’s houses, and with bright glasses of nectarous ale, or more potent spirit sparkling before them, and pipe in mouth, to talk of markets, rents, tithes, new improvements, and the promise of crops? to walk over their lands of a sunday afternoon together, and pronounce on the condition of growing corn, turnips, and grass; on this drainage, or that neighbour’s odd management; on the appearance of sheep, cattle, and horses. and this is to be excused, and in a great degree to be admired. for those are no artificial objects on which they expend their lives and souls; they are the delightful things of nature on which they operate; and nature operates with them in all their labours, and sweetens them to their spirits. this is the grand secret of their everlasting attachment to, and enjoyment of agricultural life. they work with nature, and only modulate and benefit by her functions, as she takes up, quickens, and completes the work of their hands. there is a living principle in all their labours, which distinguishes them from most other trades. the earth gives its strength to the seed they throw into it—to the cattle that walk upon it. the winds blow, the waters run for them; the very frosts and snows of winter give salutary checks to the rankness of vegetation, and lighten the soil, and destroy what is noxious for them; and every principle of[91] animal and vegetable existence and organization co-operates to support and enrich them. there is a charm in this which must last while the spirit of man feels the stirrings of the spirit and power of god around him. it may be said that rude farmers do not reason on these things in this manner. no, in many, too many, instances i grant it; but they feel. there is scarcely any bosom so cloddish but feels more or less of this, and by no other cause can an explanation be given of the enthusiasm of farmers for their profession. it is not because they can sooner enrich themselves by it—that they are more independent in it—that they have greater social advantages in it. in all these particulars the balance is in favour of the active and enterprising tradesman; but it is this charm which has infused its sweetness into the bosoms of all rural people in all ages of the world. from the days of the patriarchs to the present, what expressions of delight the greatest minds have uttered on behalf of such a life. think of homer, theocritus, virgil, and horace; of cicero, whom i have elsewhere quoted; and of the many great men of this country, some of whom too i have noticed, who have devoted themselves with such eagerness to it.
that farmers are as intelligent as a parallel grade of society in large towns i do not mean to assert; that they are as truly aware of, and as united to defend, their real interests i will assert as little. their solitary and isolated mode of existence weighs against them in these points; but that they have generally a sounder morality than a similar class of townsmen is indisputable. they have a simplicity of mind as well as manners that is more than an equivalent for the polish and conventional customs of society, and with this a cordiality that is very delightful, and very rarely now to be found—the good, homely heartiness of old english days.
they, indeed, so vividly enjoy the common blessings of life, from their vigorous health, and unvitiated appetites, as well as from the cravings of their inner being, finding their food in the daily communion with nature, instead of that book-knowledge which is so extensively diffused through all classes of the city, and which, too commonly, while it quickens the intellect, and widens the sphere of observation, i am sorry to say, deadens the human sympathies and distorts the heart—that they make so much of their kindness appear in heaping upon you bodily comforts and refreshments[92] as is often truly ludicrous. they would have you eat and drink for ever. one meal succeeds to another with a profusion and an importunity of hospitality that are overwhelming. they eat their bread with a sweetness and a capacity, generated by their active and laborious habits, that we, who lead more sedentary lives, and with minds and energies dissipated by a hundred objects unknown to them, have no idea of. people of all other classes place a great portion of their happiness in giving and eating great feasts; but a farmer seems to think all the good things of life are involved in feasting, and would feast you not once a year, but every day, and all day long, if he could.
let us just glance at the routine of one day of good fellowship, such as is seen in farm-houses where there is plenty, and yet no great pretence to gentility. we have seen many such scenes.
the farmer invites his friends to dine with him. he will have a party. suppose it at some period of the year when he is least busy; for his engagements depending on the progress of the seasons, and his whole wealth being at the mercy of the elements, he cannot postpone his duties, but must take them as they fall out. suppose it then just before the commencement of hay-harvest, for then he has a short pause, between the putting in of his last crop of potatoes or corn, shutting up his fields, and clearing his green-corn lands, and that moment when the first scythe enters his hay-fields, when a course of arduous and anxious labours begins, that will not cease till all his crops are safely housed,—hay, corn, beans, pease, and potatoes. suppose at this pause in the growing time of summer, or after harvest, or amid the festive days of christmas, he feels himself comparatively at leisure, in good spirits, and disposed to enjoy himself. he and his wife arrange their plans. invitations are sent. on market-day he lays in all necessaries,—tea, coffee, prime cuts of beef and other meat; wine and spirits; sugar and spices. at home there is busy preparation. his garden is cleaned up; an operation of rare occurrence with a busy farmer, who thinks so much of his fields that he thinks but little of his garden. his stables and his rick-yard are put in order. the very manes and tails of his horses are trimmed, for all will have to pass under the critical notice of his friends, and he feels his professional character at stake. in the house there is equal activity. there is[93] a world of cleaning and setting in order. floors are scoured. the best carpets are put down. this room is found to want fresh staining; painting wants doing here and there, both within and without. trees also want nailing and trimming on the walls; and it is probable there may want some spout repairing, or tiles renewing, that have often been talked of, but never could have time found for their doing. the house and all about it look fifty per cent. the better. the neatly cleaned walks and closely mown grass-plots; the brightly cleaned windows, and the scarlet curtains, and the purely white blinds seen within, give an air of completeness that is very satisfactory.
and then within begin the mighty preparations for the feast. geese, turkeys, ducks and fowls are killed and pulled, and part are cooked, and part are made ready for cooking. if the farmer shoots, and it be the season, there are hares and rabbits, pheasants and partridges, brought to the larder; if he do not, he makes friends with the keeper, who occasionally takes a social pipe and glass with him; or he makes a direct request to his landlord for this indulgence. hams are boiled, pies are made, puddings of the richest composition are put together. if it be christmas, loud is the chopping of meat for minced-pies, busy the mixing of spices; and the washing and picking of currants and raisins; and pork-pies and sausages of most savoury and approved manipulation are raised into material existence. if the sucking-pig escapes whipping—and we hope no honest farmer is now cruel enough for this operation—creams and syllabubs do not; they are whipped, not to death, but into life. there are blanc-mange and jellies, crystalline and fragrant; clouted creams, and cream of strawberries, raspberries, and i know not what melting and delicious things. and o! such cheesecakes, and such patties, and such little cakes of various names and natures, for tea, and entremets, and dessert. i see the oven-door open and shut, as the iron tray of nicely laden patty-pans goes into the oven, or comes out with a rich perfection, and with odours most delicious, most mouth-melting, most inexpressible! the good and skilful dame, and the no less skilful and comely daughters, if she have them, and they are grown up to years of discretion in these delicate and culinary arts—what is not their depth of occupation! what glowing looks are theirs; what[94] speculations; what contrivances and anticipations! i would fain take an easy chair in some cool corner of this milk-and-honey-flowing kitchen, and watch all their sweet employment, and hear all their sweet words in a grateful silence. but they are far from the end of their labours. nuts, walnuts, apples and pears, and other fruit, according as the season may be, are produced from their stores, or from the sunny walls and trees, wiped from every trace of mould or dust from the store-room, and placed in their proper receivers of glass, or china, or possibly of plate. wine and spirit decanters are to be washed and carefully dried, and to be charged with their bright contents. the discovery of the richest cheese in the whole cheese-room is to be made by tasting; butter is to be moulded in small cakes, and imprinted with patterns of the deepest and most elegant figure, and a thousand other things made, or done, of which the tasting were to be desired rather than the catalogue to be particularized, for, wonderful and manifold are all thy works, o thou accomplished spouse of a wealthy farmer!
what dainties has that greater oven received into its more capacious cavern. bread of the most exquisite fineness; and pies of varied character—fruit, pork, beef-steak, and giblet—if in devon or cornwall, sweet giblet, a pie that all england besides knows not of,—figgy-bread, and saffron-cake of transcendant brilliance and taste.
and then comes the great day! the guests are invited to dinner; but they have been enjoined to come early, and they come early with a vengeance. they will not come as the guests of night-loving citizens and aristocrats come, at from six to nine in the evening;—no, at ten and eleven in the morning you shall see their faces, that never yet were ashamed of day-light, and that tell of fresh air and early hours. then come rattling in sundry vehicles with their cargoes of men and women; lively salutations are exchanged; the horses are led away to the stables, and the guests into the house to doff great coats and cloaks, hats and bonnets, and sit down to luncheon. and there it is ready set out. “they’ll want something after their drive,” says the host. “to be sure,” says the hostess; and there is plenty in truth. a boiled ham, a neat’s tongue; a piece of cold beef; fowls and beef-steak-pie; tarts, and bread, cheese and butter; coffee for the ladies, and fine old ale for the gentlemen.
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“now do help yourselves,” exclaims the host from one end of the table, “i am sure you must be very hungry after such a ride.” “i am sure you must indeed,” echoes the hostess from the other, while a dozen voices cry all at once, “o, really i don’t think i can touch a bit. we got breakfast the moment before we set off;” and all the time deep are the incisions made into the various viands: and plentifully heaped are plates; and bright liquor is poured into glasses, and a great deal of talk of this and that, and inquiries after this and that person go on; a hearty luncheon is made, and the gentlemen are ready to set out and look about them. they are warned by the hostess to remember that dinner will be on table at one o’clock—“exactly at one!” and assuming hats and sticks, away they go.
while they perambulate the farm, and pass learned judgments on land, cattle, and crops; and make besides excursions into neighbouring lands, to some particular experiment in management, or extraordinary production of combined art and nature, our hostess shews her female friends her dairy, her cheese-room, her poultry-yard, and discussions as scientific are going on, on the best modes of fattening calves, rearing turkey broods, and on all the most approved manipulations of cheese and butter. the quantities produced from a certain number of cows are compared, and many wonders expressed that lands of apparent equality of richness should some yield little butter and much cheese, and others little cheese and much butter; facts well known to all such ladies, but not easy of explanation by heads that pretend to see further into the heart of a difficulty than they do. a walk is probably proposed and undertaken through the garden and orchard, and flowers and fruits are descanted on; and all this time in the house roasting, and boiling, and baking, are going on gloriously. savoury steams are rolling about under the ceilings; busy damsels with faces rosier than ever, are running to and fro on the floors; stable-boys are turned into knife-cleaners, and plough-lads into peelers of potatoes and watchers of boiling pots, and turnspits.
the hour arrives; and a sound of loud voices somewhere at hand announces that our agricultural friends are returned punctually to their time, with many a joke on their fears of the ladies’ tongues. not that they seemed to want any dinner—no, they[96] made such a luncheon; but they had such a natural fear of being scolded. well, here they all are;—and here are the ladies all in full dress. hands that have been handling prime stock, or rooting in the earth, or thrust into hay-ricks and corn-heaps, are washed, and down they sit to such a dinner as might satisfy a crew of shipwrecked men. there are seldom any of your “wishy-washy soups,” except it be very cold weather, and seldom more than two courses; but then they are courses! all of the meat kind seems set on the table at once. off go the covers, and what a perplexing but unconsumable variety! such pieces of roast beef, veal, and lamb; such hams, and turkeys, and geese; such game, and pies of pigeons or other things equally good, with vegetables of all kinds in season—peas, potatoes, cauliflowers, kidney-beans, lettuces, and whatever the season can produce. the most potent of ale and porter, the most crystalline and cool water, are freely supplied, and wine for those that will. when these things have had ample respect paid to them, they vanish, and the table is covered with plum-puddings and fruit tarts, cheesecakes, syllabubs, and all the nicknackery of whipped creams and jellies that female invention can produce. and then, a dessert of equal profusion. why should we tantalize ourselves with the vision of all those nuts, walnuts, almonds, raisins, fruits, and confections? enough that they are there; that the wine circulates—foreign and english—port and sherry—gooseberry and damson—malt and birch—elderflower and cowslip,—and loud is the clamour of voices male and female. if there be not quite so much refinement of tone and manner, quite so much fastidiousness of phrase and action, as in some other places, there is at least more hearty laughter, more natural jocularity, and many a
random shot of country wit,
as burns calls it. a vast of talk there is of all the country round; every strange circumstance; every incident and change of condition, and new alliance amongst their mutual friends and acquaintances, pass under review. the ladies withdraw; and the gentlemen draw together; spirits take place of wine, and pipes are lighted. we know what subjects will interest them—farming improvements and politics—and so it goes till tea-time.
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when summoned to tea, there are additional faces. the pastor and his wife, perhaps a son and daughter, or daughters, are there; and there is the clerk too,—the very model of respect and reverence towards his clerical superior. whatever that learned authority asserts, this zealous and “dearly-beloved moses” testifies. he calls attention to what the vicar says; he repeats with great satisfaction his sayings. there too, is the surgeon, and often the veterinary surgeon, especially as he also is often a farmer, and in intercourse with all the farmers far and near. this may seem an odd jumble of ranks, but it is no more odd than true. who that has seen anything of rural life has not seen odder medleys? besides, money in all grades of society can do miracles. there are clergymen in many parishes, who maintain their own ideas of dignity, and seldom move out of the circle of squires and dames; but there are others, and in perfectly rural districts there are abundance of others, that know how to mix more freely with the yeomanry of their flocks, and lose nothing neither. if they respect themselves, they insure the respect, and what is better, the attachment of their hearers.
but the vicar’s presence on such a day is felt. there is a more palpable approximation towards silence;—a drawing tighter of the reins of conversational freedom. the great talkers of after-dinner are now become great listeners, and often on such occasions i have seen a scene worthy of the sound sense of english yeomen; for the pastor addresses his observations and inquiries now to this individual, and now to that; and now converses in a tone of pleasant humour with the ladies; so that you may often hear as sober discussions on the passing topics of the day, and on the prospects of the country, and especially of that part of it to which they belong, delivered in a homely manner perhaps, but with a discrimination and practical knowledge that are very gratifying. and on the part of the females you shall see so many symptoms of good-heartedness and real matronly mind as make you feel that sense, soul, and true sympathies, are of no particular grade, or particular style of life.
but there must be a dance for the young, and there are cards for the more sedate; and then again, to a supper as profuse, with its hot game, and fowls, and fresh pastry, as if it had been the[98] sole meal cooked in the house that day. the pastor and his company depart; the wine and spirits circulate; all begin to talk of parting, and are loth to part, till it grows late; and they have some of them six or seven miles to go, perhaps, on a pitch-dark night, through by-ways, and with roads not to be boasted of. all at once, however, up rise the men to go, for their wives, who asked and looked with imploring eyes in vain, now shew themselves cloaked and bonneted, and the carriages are heard with grinding wheels at the door. there is a boisterous shaking of hands, a score of invitations to come and do likewise, given to their entertainers, and they mount and away! when you see the blackness of the night, and consider that they have not eschewed good liquor, and perceive at what a rate they drive away, you expect nothing less than to hear the next day, that they have dashed their vehicles to atoms against some post, or precipitated themselves into some quarry; but all is right. they best know their own capabilities, and are at home, safe and sound.
such is a specimen of the festivities of what may be called the middle and substantial class of farmers; and the same thing holds, in degree, to the very lowest grade of them. the smallest farmer will bring you out the very best he has; he will spare nothing, on a holiday occasion; and his wife will present you with her simple slice of cake, and a glass of currant or cowslip wine, with an empressement, and a welcome that you feel to the heart is real, and a bestowal of a real pleasure to the offerer.
