july 11th.—we left edinburgh, where we had found at addison's, 87 prince's street, the most comfortable hotel in great britain, and went to melrose, where we put up at the george. this is all travelled ground with me, so that i need not much perplex myself with further description, especially as it is impossible, by any repetition of attempts, to describe melrose abbey. we went thither immediately after tea, and were shown over the ruins by a very delectable old scotchman, incomparably the best guide i ever met with. i think he must take pains to speak the scotch dialect, he does it with such pungent felicity and effect, and it gives a flavor to everything he says, like the mustard and vinegar in a salad. this is not the man i saw when here before. the scotch dialect is still, in a greater or less degree, universally prevalent in scotland, insomuch that we generally find it difficult to comprehend the answers to our questions, though more, i think, from the unusual intonation than either from strange words or pronunciation. but this old man, though he spoke the most unmitigated scotch, was perfectly intelligible,—perhaps because his speech so well accorded with the classic standard of the waverley novels. moreover, he is thoroughly acquainted with the abbey, stone by stone; and it was curious to see him, as we walked among its aisles, and over the grass beneath its roofless portions, pick up the withered leaves that had fallen there, and do other such little things, as a good housewife might do to a parlor. i have met with two or three instances where the guardian of an old edifice seemed really to love it, and this was one, although the old man evidently had a scotch covenanter's contempt and dislike of the faith that founded the abbey. he repeated king david's dictum that king david the first was "a sair saint for the crown," as bestowing so much wealth on religious edifices; but really, unless it be walter scott, i know not any scotchman who has done so much for his country as this same st. david. as the founder of melrose and many other beautiful churches and abbeys, he left magnificent specimens of the only kind of poetry which the age knew how to produce; and the world is the better for him to this day,—which is more, i believe, than can be said of any hero or statesman in scottish annals.
we went all over the ruins, of course, and saw the marble stone of king alexander, and the spot where bruce's heart is said to be buried, and the slab of michael scott, with the cross engraved upon it; also the exquisitely sculptured kail-leaves, and other foliage and flowers, with which the gothic artists inwreathed this edifice, bestowing more minute and faithful labor than an artist of these days would do on the most delicate piece of cabinet-work. we came away sooner than we wished, but we hoped to return thither this morning; and, for my part, i cherish a presentiment that this will not be our last visit to scotland and melrose. . . . j——- and i then walked to the tweed, where we saw two or three people angling, with naked legs, or trousers turned up, and wading among the rude stones that make something like a dam over the wide and brawling stream. i did not observe that they caught any fish, but j——- was so fascinated with the spectacle that he pulled out his poor little fishing-line, and wished to try his chance forthwith. i never saw the angler's instinct stronger in anybody. we walked across the foot-bridge that here spans the tweed; and j——- observed that he did not see how william of deloraine could have found so much difficulty in swimming his horse across so shallow a river. neither do i. it now began to sprinkle, and we hastened back to the hotel.
it was not a pleasant morning; but we started immediately after breakfast for
abbotsford,
which is but about three miles distant. the country between melrose and that place is not in the least beautiful, nor very noteworthy,—one or two old irregular villages; one tower that looks principally domestic, yet partly warlike, and seems to be of some antiquity; and an undulation, or rounded hilly surface of the landscape, sometimes affording wide vistas between the slopes. these hills, which, i suppose, are some of them on the abbotsford estate, are partly covered with woods, but of scotch fir, or some tree of that species, which creates no softened undulation, but overspreads the hill like a tightly fitting wig. it is a cold, dreary, disheartening neighborhood, that of abbotsford; at least, it has appeared so to me at both of my visits,—one of which was on a bleak and windy may morning, and this one on a chill, showery morning of midsummer.
the entrance-way to the house is somewhat altered since my last visit; and we now, following the direction of a painted finger on the wall, went round to a side door in the basement story, where we found an elderly man waiting as if in expectation of visitors. he asked us to write our names in a book, and told us that the desk on the leaf of which it lay was the one in which sir walter found the forgotten manuscript of waverley, while looking for some fishing-tackle. there was another desk in the room, which had belonged to the colonel gardiner who appears in waverley. the first apartment into which our guide showed us was sir walter's study, where i again saw his clothes, and remarked how the sleeve of his old green coat was worn at the cuff,—a minute circumstance that seemed to bring sir walter very near me. thence into the library; thence into the drawing-room, whence, methinks, we should have entered the dining-room, the most interesting of all, as being the room where he died. but this room seems not to be shown now. we saw the armory, with the gun of rob roy, into the muzzle of which i put my finger, and found the bore very large; the beautifully wrought pistol of claverhouse, and a pair of pistols that belonged to napoleon; the sword of montrose, which i grasped, and drew half out of the scabbard; and queen mary's iron jewel-box, six or eight inches long, and two or three high, with a lid rounded like that of a trunk, and much corroded with rust. there is no use in making a catalogue of these curiosities. the feeling in visiting abbotsford is not that of awe; it is little more than going to a museum. i do abhor this mode of making pilgrimages to the shrines of departed great men. there is certainly something wrong in it, for it seldom or never produces (in me, at least) the right feeling. it is an odd truth, too, that a house is forever after spoiled and ruined as a home, by having been the abode of a great man. his spirit haunts it, as it were, with a malevolent effect, and takes hearth and hall away from the nominal possessors, giving all the world the right to enter there because he had such intimate relations with all the world.
we had intended to go to dryburgh abbey; but as the weather more than threatened rain, . . . . we gave up the idea, and so took the rail for berwick, after one o'clock. on our road we passed several ruins in scotland, and some in england,—one old castle in particular, beautifully situated beside a deep-banked stream. the road lies for many miles along the coast, affording a fine view of the german ocean, which was now blue, sunny, and breezy, the day having risen out of its morning sulks. we waited an hour or more at berwick, and j——- and i took a hasty walk into the town. it is a rough and rude assemblage of rather mean houses, some of which are thatched. there seems to have been a wall about the town at a former period, and we passed through one of the gates. the view of the river tweed here is very fine, both above and below the railway bridge, and especially where it flows, a broad tide, and between high banks, into the sea. thence we went onward along the coast, as i have said, pausing a few moments in smoky newcastle, and reaching durham about eight o'clock.
