april 1st.—after my last date on thursday, i visited the national gallery. at three o'clock, having packed a travelling-bag, i went to bennoch's office, and lunched with him; and at about five we took the rail from the waterloo station for aldershott camp. at tamborough we were cordially received by lieutenant shaw, of the north cork rifles, and were escorted by him, in a fly, to his quarters. the camp is a large city, composed of numberless wooden barracks, arranged in regular streets, on a wide, bleak heath, with an extensive and dreary prospect on all sides. lieutenant shaw assigned me one room in his hut, and bennoch another, and made us as comfortable as kind hospitality could; but the huts are very small, and the rooms have no size at all; neither are they air-tight, and the sharp wind whistles in at the crevices; and, on the whole, of all discomfortable places, i am inclined to reckon aldershott camp the most so. i suppose the government has placed the camp on that windy heath, and built such wretched huts, for the very purpose of rendering life as little desirable as may be to the soldiers, so that they should throw it away the more willingly.
at seven o'clock we dined at the regimental mess, with the officers of the north cork. the mess-room is by far the most endurable place to be found in camp. the hut is large, and the mess-room is capable of receiving between thirty and forty guests, besides the officers of the regiment, when a great dinner-party is given. as i saw it, the whole space was divided into a dining-room and two anterooms by red curtains drawn across; and the second anteroom seems to be a general rendezvous for the officers, where they meet at all times, and talk, or look over the newspapers and the army-register, which constitute the chief of their reading. the colonel and lieutenant-colonel of the regiment received bennoch and me with great cordiality, as did all the other officers, and we sat down to a splendid dinner.
all the officers of the regiment are irishmen, and all of them, i believe, men of fortune; and they do what they can towards alleviating their hardships in camp by eating and drinking of the best that can be obtained of all good things. the table service and plate were as fine as those in any nobleman's establishment; the dishes numerous and admirably got up; and the wines delectable and genuine,—as they had need to be; for there is a great consumption of them. i liked these irish officers exceedingly;—not that it would be possible to live long among them without finding existence a bore; for they have no thought, no intellectual movement, no ideas, that i was aware of, beyond horses, dogs, drill, garrisons, field-days, whist, wine, cigars, and all that kind of thing; yet they were really gentlemen living on the best terms with one another,—courteous, kind, most hospitable, with a rich irish humor, softened down by social refinements,—not too refined either, but a most happy sort of behavior, as natural as that of children, and with a safe freedom that made one feel entirely at my ease. i think well of the irish gentlemen, for their sakes; and i believe i might fairly attribute to lieutenant-colonel stowell (next whom i sat) a higher and finer cultivation than the above description indicates. indeed, many of them may have been capable of much more intellectual intercourse than that of the mess-table; but i suppose it would not have been in keeping with their camp life, nor suggested by it. several of the elder officers were men who had been long in the army; and the colonel—a bluff, hearty old soldier, with a profile like an eagle's head and beak—was a veteran of the peninsula, and had a medal on his breast with clasps for three famous battles besides that of waterloo.
the regimental band played during dinner, and the lieutenant-colonel apologized to me for its not playing "hail columbia," the tune not coning within their musical accomplishments. it was no great matter, however; for i should not have distinguished it from any other tune; but, to do me what honor was possible, in the way of national airs, the band was ordered to play a series of negro melodies, and i was entirely satisfied. it is really funny that the "wood-notes wild" of those poor black slaves should have been played in a foreign laud as an honorable compliment to one of their white countrymen.
after dinner we played whist, and then had some broiled bones for supper, and finally went home to our respective huts not much earlier than four o'clock. but i don't wonder these gentlemen sit up as long as they can keep their eyes open; for never was there anything so utterly comfortless as their camp-beds. they are really worse than the bed of honor, no wider, no softer, no warmer, and affording not nearly so sound sleep. indeed, i got hardly any sleep at all, and almost as soon as i did close my eyes, the bugles sounded, and the drums beat reveille, and from that moment the camp was all astir; so i pretty soon uprose, and went to the mess-room for my breakfast, feeling wonderfully fresh and well, considering what my night had been.
long before this, however, this whole regiment, and all the other regiments, marched off to take part in a general review, and bennoch and i followed, as soon as we had eaten a few mutton-chops. it was a bright, sunshiny day; but with a strong east-wind, as piercing and pitiless as ever blew; and this wide, undulating plain of aldershott seemed just the place where the east-wind was at home. still, it acted, on the whole, like an invigorating cordial; and whereas in pleasanter circumstances i should have lain down, and gone to sleep, i now felt as if i could do without sleep for a month.
in due time we found out the place of the north cork regiment in the general battle-array, and were greeted as old comrades by the colonel and other officers. soon the soldiers (who, when we first reached them, were strolling about, or standing at ease) were called into order; and anon we saw a group of mounted officers riding along the lines, and among them a gentleman in a civilian's round hat, and plain frock and trousers, riding on a white horse. this group of riders turned the front of the regiment, and then passed along the rear, coming close to where we stood; and as the plainly dressed gentleman rode by, he bent towards me, and i tried to raise my hat, but did not succeed very well, because the fierce wind had compelled me to jam it tightly upon my head. the duke of cambridge (for this was he) is a comely-looking gentlemanly man, of bluff english face, with a great deal of brown beard about it. though a pretty tall man, he appears, on horseback, broad and round in proportion to his height. i looked at him with a certain sort of interest, and a feeling of kindness; for one does feel kindly to whatever human being is anywise marked out from the rest, unless it be by his disagreeable qualities.
the troops, from twelve to fifteen thousand, now fell into marching order, and went to attack a wood, where we were to suppose the enemy to be stationed. the sham-fight seemed to me rather clumsily managed, and without any striking incident or result. the officers had prophesied, the night before, that general k———, commanding in the camp, would make a muddle of it; and probably he did. after the review, the duke of cambridge with his attendant officers took their station, and all the regiments marched in front of him, saluting as they passed. as each colonel rode by, and as the banner of each regiment was lowered, the duke lifted his hat.
the most splendid effect of this parade was the gleam of the sun upon the long line of bayonets,—the sheen of all that steel appearing like a wavering fringe of light upon the dark masses of troops below. it was very fine. but i was glad when all was done, and i could go back to the mess-room, whither i carried an excellent appetite for luncheon. after this we walked about the camp,—looked at some model tents, inspected the arrangements and modes of living in the huts of the privates; and thus gained more and more adequate ideas of the vile uncomfortableness of a military life. finally, i went to the anteroom and turned over the regimental literature,—a peerage and baronetage,—an army and militia register, a number of the sporting magazine, and one of the united service, while bennoch took another walk. before dinner we both tried to catch a little nap by way of compensation for last night's deficiencies; but, for my part, the attempt was fruitless.
the dinner was as splendid and as agreeable as that of the evening before; and i believe it was nearly two o'clock when bennoch and i bade farewell to our kind entertainers. for my part i fraternized with these military gentlemen in a way that augurs the very best things for the future peace of the two countries. they all expressed the warmest sympathies towards america and it was easy to judge from their conversation that there is no real friendliness on the part of the military towards the french. the old antipathy is just as strong as ever,—stronger than ever, perhaps, on account of the comparatively more brilliant success of the french in this russian war. so, with most christian sentiments of peace and brotherly love, we returned to our hut, and lay down, each in his narrow bed.
early in the morning the drums and bugles began the usual bedevilment; and shortly after six i dressed, and we had breakfast at the mess-room, shook hands with lieutenant shaw (our more especial host), and drove off to the railway station at ash.
i know not whether i have mentioned that the villages neighboring to the camp have suffered terribly as regards morality from the vicinity of the soldiers. quiet old english towns, that till within a little time ago had kept their antique simplicity and innocence, have now no such thing as female virtue in them, so far as the lower classes are concerned. this is expressing the matter too strongly, no doubt; but there is too much truth in it, nevertheless; and one of the officers remarked that even ladies of respectability had grown much more free in manners and conversation than at first. i have heard observations similar to this from a nova-scotian, in reference to the moral influence of soldiers when stationed in the provinces.
