august 2d.—mr. ——— has urged me very much to go with his father and family to see the launch of a great ship which has been built for their house, and afterwards to partake of a picnic; so, on tuesday morning i presented myself at the landing-stage, and met the party, to take passage for chester. it was a showery morning, and looked wofully like a rainy day; but nothing better is to be expected in england; and, after all, there is seldom such a day that you cannot glide about pretty securely between the drops of rain. this, however, did not turn out one of those tolerable days, but grew darker and darker, and worse and worse; and was worst of all when we had passed about six miles beyond chester, and were just on the borders of wales, on the hither side of the river dee, where the ship was to be launched. here the train stopped, and absolutely deposited our whole party of excursionists, under a heavy shower, in the midst of a muddy potato-field, whence we were to wade through mud and mire to the ship-yard, almost half a mile off. some kind christian, i know not whom, gave me half of his umbrella, and half of his cloak, and thereby i got to a shed near the ship, without being entirely soaked through.
the ship had been built on the banks of the dee, at a spot where it is too narrow for her to be launched directly across, and so she lay lengthwise of the river, and was so arranged as to take the water parallel with the stream. she is, for aught i know, the largest ship in the world; at any rate, longer than the great britain,—an iron-screw steamer,—and looked immense and magnificent, and was gorgeously dressed out in flags. had it been a pleasant day, all chester and half wales would have been there to see the launch; and, in spite of the rain, there were a good many people on the opposite shore, as well as on our side; and one or two booths, and many of the characteristics of a fair,—that is to say, men and women getting intoxicated without any great noise and confusion.
the ship was expected to go off at about twelve o'clock, and at that juncture all mr. ———'s friends assembled under the bows of the ship, where we were a little sheltered from the rain by the projection of that part of the vessel over our heads. the bottle of port-wine with which she was to be christened was suspended from the bows to the platform where we stood by a blue ribbon; and the ceremony was to be performed by mrs. ———, who, i could see, was very nervous in anticipation of the ceremony. mr. ——— kept giving her instructions in a whisper, and showing her how to throw the bottle; and as the critical moment approached, he took hold of it along with her. all this time we were waiting in momentary expectation of the ship going off, everything being ready, and only the touch of a spring, as it were, needed to make her slide into the water. but the chief manager kept delaying a little longer, and a little longer; though the pilot on board sent to tell him that it was time she was off. "yes, yes; but i want as much water as i can get," answered the manager; and so he held on till, i suppose, the tide had raised the river dee to its very acme of height. at last the word was given; the ship began slowly to move; mrs. ——— threw the bottle against the bow with a spasmodic effort that dashed it into a thousand pieces, and diffused the fragrance of the old port all around, where it lingered several minutes. i did not think that there could have been such a breathless moment in an affair of this kind.
the ship moved majestically down toward the river; and unless it were niagara, i never saw anything grander and more impressive than the motion of this mighty mass as she departed from us. we on the platform, and everybody along both shores of the dee, took off our hats in the rain, waved handkerchiefs, cheered, shouted,—"beautiful!" "what a noble launch!" "never was so fair a sight!"—and, really, it was so grand, that calm, majestic movement, that i felt the tears come into my eyes. the wooden pathway adown which she was gliding began to smoke with the friction; when all at once, when we expected to see her plunge into the dee, she came to a full stop. mr. ———, the father of my friend, a gentleman with white hair, a dark, expressive face, bright eyes, and an oriental cast of features, immediately took the alarm. a moment before his countenance had been kindled with triumph; but now he turned pale as death, and seemed to grow ten years older while i was looking at him. well he might, for his noble ship was stuck fast in the land of the dee, and without deepening the bed of the river, i do not see how her vast iron hulk is ever to be got out.
[this steamer was afterwards successfully floated off on the 29th of the same month.]
there was no help for it. a steamboat was hitched on to the stranded vessel, but broke two or three cables without stirring her an inch. so, after waiting long after we had given up all hope, we went to the office of the ship-yard, and there took a lunch; and still the rain was pouring, pouring, pouring, and i never experienced a blacker affair in all my days. then we had to wait a great while for a train to take us back, so that it was almost five o'clock before we arrived at chester, where i spent an hour in rambling about the old town, under the rows; and on the walls, looking down on the treetops, directly under my feet, and through their thick branches at the canal, which creeps at the base, and at the cathedral; walking under the dark intertwining arches of the cloisters, and looking up at the great cathedral tower, so wasted away externally by time and weather that it looks, save for the difference of color between white snow and red freestone, like a structure of snow, half dissolved by several warm days.
at the lunch i met with a graduate of cambridge (england), tutor of a grandson of percival, with his pupil (percival, the assassinated minister, i mean). i should not like this position of tutor to a young englishman; it certainly has an ugly twang of upper servitude. i observed that the tutor gave his pupil the best seat in the railway carriage, and in all respects provided for his comfort before thinking of his own; and this, not as a father does for his child, out of love, but from a sense of place and duty, which i did not quite see how a gentleman could consent to feel. and yet this mr. c——— was evidently a gentleman, and a quiet, intelligent, agreeable, and, no doubt, learned man. k——— being mentioned, mr. c——— observed that he had known him well at college, having been his contemporary there. he did not like him, however,—thought him a "dangerous man," as well as i could gather; he thinks there is some radical defect in k———'s moral nature, a lack of sincerity; and, furthermore, he believes him to be a sensualist in his disposition, in support of which view he said mr. k——— had made drawings, such as no pure man could have made, or could allow himself to show or look at. this was the only fact which mr. c——— adduced, bearing on his opinion of k———; otherwise, it seemed to be one of those early impressions which a collegian gets of his fellow-students, and which he never gets rid of, whatever the character of the person may turn out to be in after years. i have judged several persons in this way, and still judge them so, though the world has cone to very different conclusions. which is right?—the world, which has the man's whole mature life on its side; or his early companion, who has nothing for it but some idle passages of his youth?
mr. m——— remarked of newspaper reporters, that they may be known at all celebrations, and of any public occasion, by the enormous quantity of luncheon they eat.
august 12th.—mr. b——— dined with us at the rock ferry hotel the day before yesterday. speaking of helvellyn, and the death of charles cough, about whom wordsworth and scott have both sung, mr. b——— mentioned a version of that story which rather detracts from the character of the faithful dog.
but somehow it lowers one's opinion of human nature itself, to be compelled so to lower one's standard of a dog's nature. i don't intend to believe the disparaging story, but it reminds me of the story of the new-zealander who was asked whether he loved a missionary who had been laboring for his soul and those of his countrymen. "to be sure i loved him. why, i ate a piece of him for my breakfast this morning!"
for the last week or two i have passed my time between the hotel and the consulate, and a weary life it is, and one that leaves little of profit behind it. i am sick to death of my office,—brutal captains and brutal sailors; continual complaints of mutual wrong, which i have no power to set right, and which, indeed, seem to have no right on either side; calls of idleness or ceremony from my travelling countrymen, who seldom know what they are in search of at the commencement of their tour, and never have attained any desirable end at the close of it; beggars, cheats, simpletons, unfortunates, so mixed up that it is impossible to distinguish one from another, and so, in self-defence, the consul distrusts them all. . . .
at the hotel, yesterday, there was a large company of factory people from preston, who marched up from the pier with a band of military music playing before them. they spent the day in the gardens and ball-room of the hotel, dancing and otherwise merry-making; but i saw little of them, being at the consulate. towards evening it drizzled, and the assemblage melted away gradually; and when the band marched down to the pier, there were few to follow, although one man went dancing before the musicians, flinging out his arms, and footing it with great energy and gesticulation. some young women along the road likewise began to dance as the music approached.
thackeray has a dread of servants, insomuch that he hates to address them, or to ask them for anything. his morbid sensibility, in this regard, has perhaps led him to study and muse upon them, so that he may be presumed to have a more intimate knowledge of this class than any other man.
carlyle dresses so badly, and wears such a rough outside, that the flunkies are rude to him at gentlemen's doors.
in the afternoon j——- and i took a walk towards tranmere hall, and beyond, as far as oxton. this part of the country, being so near liverpool and birkenhead, is all sprinkled over with what they call "terraces," "bellevues," and other pretty names for semi-detached villas ("recluse cottage" was one) for a somewhat higher class. but the old, whitewashed stone cottage is still frequent, with its roof of slate or thatch, which perhaps is green with weeds or grass. through its open door, you see that it has a pavement of flagstones, or perhaps of red freestone; and hogs and donkeys are familiar with the threshold. the door always opens directly into the kitchen, without any vestibule; and, glimpsing in, you see that a cottager's life must be the very plainest and homeliest that ever was lived by men and women. yet the flowers about the door often indicate a native capacity for the beautiful; but often there is only a pavement of round stones or of flagstones, like those within. at one point where there was a little bay, as it were, in the hedge fence, we saw something like a small tent or wigwam,—an arch of canvas three or four feet high, and open in front, under which sat a dark-complexioned woman and some children. the woman was sewing, and i took them for gypsies.
august 17th.—yesterday afternoon j——- and i went to birkenhead park, which i have already described. . . . it so happened that there was a large school spending its holiday there; a school of girls of the lower classes, to the number of a hundred and fifty, who disported themselves on the green, under the direction of the schoolmistresses and of an old gentleman. it struck me, as it always has, to observe how the lower orders of this country indicate their birth and station by their aspect and features. in america there would be a good deal of grace and beauty among a hundred and fifty children and budding girls, belonging to whatever rank of life. but here they had universally a most plebeian look,—stubbed, sturdy figures, round, coarse faces, snub-noses,—the most evident specimens of the brown bread of human nature. they looked wholesome and good enough, and fit to sustain their rough share of life; but it would have been impossible to make a lady out of any one of them. climate, no doubt, has most to do with diffusing a slender elegance over american young-womanhood; but something, perhaps, is also due to the circumstance of classes not being kept apart there as they are here: they interfuse, amid the continual ups and downs of our social life; and so, in the lowest stations of life, you may see the refining influence of gentle blood. at all events, it is only necessary to look at such an assemblage of children as i saw yesterday, to be convinced that birth and blood do produce certain characteristics. to be sure, i have seen no similar evidence in england or elsewhere of old gentility refining and elevating the race.
these girls were all dressed in black gowns, with white aprons and neckerchiefs, and white linen caps on their heads,—a very dowdyish attire, and well suited to their figures. i saw only two of their games,—in one, they stood in a circle, while two of their number chased one another within and without the ring of girls, which opened to let the fugitive pass, but closed again to impede the passage of the pursuer. the other was blind-man's-buff on a new plan: several of the girls, sometimes as many as twenty, being blinded at once, and pursuing a single one, who rang a hand-bell to indicate her whereabouts. this was very funny; the bell-girl keeping just beyond their reach, and drawing them after her in a huddled group, so that they sometimes tumbled over one another and lay sprawling. i think i have read of this game in strutt's "english sports and pastimes."
we walked from the park home to rock ferry, a distance of three or four miles,—a part of which was made delightful by a foot-path, leading us through fields where the grass had just been mown, and others where the wheat harvest was commenced. the path led us into the very midst of the rural labor that was going forward; and the laborers rested a moment to look at us; in fact, they seemed to be more willing to rest than american laborers would have been. children were loitering along this path or sitting down beside it; and we met one little maid, passing from village to village, intent on some errand. reaching tranmere, i went into an alehouse, nearly opposite the hall, and called for a glass of ale. the doorstep before the house, and the flagstone floor of the entry and tap-room, were chalked all over in corkscrew lines,—an adornment that gave an impression of care and neatness, the chalked lines being evidently freshly made. it was a low, old-fashioned room ornamented with a couple of sea-shells, and an earthen-ware figure on the mantel-piece; also with advertisements of allsop's ale, and other drinks, and with a pasteboard handbill of "the ancient order of foresters"; any member of which, paying sixpence weekly, is entitled to ten shillings per week, and the attendance of a first-rate physician in sickness, and twelve pounds to be paid to his friends in case of death. any member of this order, when travelling, is sure (says the handbill) to meet with a brother member to lend him a helping hand, there being nearly three thousand districts of this order, and more than a hundred and nine thousand members in great britain, whence it has extended to australia, america, and other countries.
looking up at the gateway of tranmere hall, i discovered an inscription on the red freestone lintel, and, though much time-worn, i succeeded in reading it. "labor omnia vincit. 1614." there were likewise some initials which i could not satisfactorily make out. the sense of this motto would rather befit the present agricultural occupants of the house than the idle gentlefolks who built and formerly inhabited it.
