mormon battalion mustered out of service—one hundred and fifty members organize to return east to the rocky mountains—start on the journey—difficulties of the route—dealing with wild horses and cattle—stampede of a pack animal—chase into an indian camp—lost all night in a swamp—suffering on the desert for lack of water—arrive near sutter's fort—on the site of sacramento—party decide to remain over for the year, and obtain employment—meet capt. j. a. sutter and james w. marshall—proposition to capt. sutter—engaged to work on a sawmill—proceedings at the millsite—mill started up—the writer engaged to direct indians laboring at the tail race—conversation with mr. marshall—marshall talks about finding gold—he and the writer make a search for gold, but finding none, defer the investigation till next morning—marshall's faith in his being successful in discovering the precious metal.
on the 16th of july, 1847, the close of the mormon battalion's term of enlistment, we were called into line, and an officer passed along as in ordinary inspection. then, without further ceremony, he said. "you are discharged." i do not think one-half of the command heard him, he spoke so low. some of us thought he may have felt ashamed because of his conduct toward us on our march to santa fe. he was the little bigot, lieutenant a. j. smith.
thus we bade adieu to united states military authority and returned to the ranks of civil life. one hundred and fifty of us organized ourselves into hundreds, fifties and tens, and were soon on our way to meet our friends somewhere, as we supposed, in the rocky mountains east; and still we did not know just where. we sought information as best we could, and the most that we could learn was that by following under the base of the sierra nevada range six hundred miles we would come to sutter's fort, where we could obtain further information as to the best route to where we supposed we would find our friends.
it was about the 20th of july when the first company moved out on the intended journey; and in three or four days the remaining hundred followed. we passed gen. pico's ranch about twenty miles northward, and from there crossed over a mountain so high and steep that it made our heads swim, and it was with difficulty that we could sit on our horses. in places, it was impossible for us to dismount, for lack of room. two mules lost their footing and fell twenty-five or thirty feet before they could regain a foothold, and it was very hard work to get them back on the trail. we traveled some eighteen or twenty miles from pico's ranch to francisco ranch, where we joined the fifty who had preceded the main body, and were waiting for us to come up.
a meeting was held, at which it was decided to purchase forty or fifty beef cattle, which was done at not to exceed four dollars per head. the course of our journey from this time was northward. the country where we were traveling was a wilderness of hill and dale, deep gorges, and brush, so that the first two days we lost ten or fifteen head of beef cattle. it was decided to make sure of the remainder by slaughtering and jerking or curing the beef, and next morning there came a battle with the cattle, which had become wild and ferocious, plunging at the men on horseback everywhere, so we had to shoot them down as best we could. after stopping two or three days to jerk the beef, we proceeded on our journey.
many of our horses were bronchos, or wild, when we purchased them, and gave us much trouble. the packs would get loose and turn under the animals, which would run and kick, scattering things as they went. one day alexander stephens, william garner and i had a horse stampede with its burden. i gave pursuit, and as i had no thought of anything but capturing the animal, i chased it about three miles, right into an indian camp. the indians must have seen me coming and fled. their fires were burning, pots boiling, and camp equipage laid around. from appearances there must have been fifteen to twenty families; their tracks were thick and fresh. the runaway horse seems to have been so excited that, like its pursuer, it ran in among the camp before observing the danger; then it turned and i secured it with a lasso. at that moment i recognized the peril of my own position, in the possibility of being ambushed by indians. it may be needless to state that i got out of that place in a hurry; although i had lost sight of the camp and was confused for a little time till i found my trail.
upon returning, i met my two comrades, who had had all they could do to take care of the other pack animals, and were very anxious about me. it was getting late in the day, and the company had passed out of sight. we followed as fast as we could, but darkness overtook us and we soon found ourselves wandering in the bullrushes and marshes of the east end of tulare lake. turn which way we would we could not find any trail out. at last we found a spot more solid than the surroundings; we halted and felt around in the darkness; every way we went it was mud and water. the night was so dark that we could not see each other or the horses, and finally we tied the animals together so we could hold them, took off the pack, and waited around till daylight. i do not think either of us slept fifteen minutes that night. we had nothing to make a fire with, and if we had, it would not have been wise to have attracted savage indians with one. early in the morning we prepared to seek a way out, and to our surprise, discovered close by a bullrush boat which an aged indian was pushing through the rushes. the boat had been made by twisting and braiding the rushes together, and reminded us of what the prophet says about embassadors going forth in vessels of bullrushes. we could not learn from whence the indian came or whither he was going, nor yet his errand. we bade him good day, and soon found the trail of our company. after going three or four miles, we met some of our men who had been sent in search of us; they had passed the night in great anxiety concerning our safety. thankfully we reached the camp to have a bite of food and proceed on our journey, grateful that we yet had our hair on the top of our heads, where the darkey says; "the wool ought to grow."
our journey took us over cold mountain streams, some of which we forded, carrying our baggage on our heads and making from three to five trips each way; others we built rafts for, by tying dry logs together with our lash-ropes, piling them with baggage, and drawing them over or pushing them with poles, the men swimming their horses and often themselves. these streams were quite numerous. among those i remember were the tulare, the san joaquin river, and others. the crossing of these streams was hard on man and beast, the water being cold close to the mountains, and the work hazardous owing to the rapid currents and boulders in the channels of the rivers. on this journey we were two days on dry plains, and suffered almost to death; some of our horses became so thirsty that their eyes turned white as milk and blind as bats; they staggered against anything they came to. some of the men gave out entirely, and if it had not been for some of the stronger men and horses that pushed forward and then returned to aid the others, many of the latter never would have been able to have reached camp. men had their tongues swollen and eyes sunken and glazed; some could not drink water when it was brought to them, until their lips and mouths had been bathed and some of the liquid poured into their throats. fortunately for the writer, he was one of the stronger ones who went ahead and returned to his comrades the last day on the desert; the scene was terrible beyond the powers of description.
fully five hundred and fifty miles of that journey was made without seeing a house, or a white woman or child. there were many indians and their ranches, but the savages gave us no particular trouble. we pressed forward till august 26, when we came to the american river, two miles above sutter's fort and about a mile and a half from the sacramento river, at the point where the city of sacramento now stands. the locality was then a forest of cottonwood timber and undergrowth.
when we reached the vicinity of sutter's fort a consultation was held, at which it was decided that most of the party would remain until next year, and obtain employment where they could. captain john a. sutter and james marshall contemplated building a gristmill and also a sawmill, but had no skilled workmen to perform the task. accordingly, a committee was appointed from our number, who informed captain sutter that we had among us carpenters, blacksmiths, wheelwrights, millwrights, farmers and common laborers; that we were in need of horses, cattle, and a general outfit for crossing the mountains early the next summer, and that if we could not get all money for our pay we would take part in supplies for our journey; the committee also inquired what the prospect for employment was. captain sutter gave the committee encouragement, and asked them to call on him again in two or three days.
the result was, that between august 29 and september 5, from forty to sixty of us called on captain sutter. some were employed to work on the gristmill; others took contracts on the mill race. the race was seven or eight miles long, and was also intended for irrigation.
between the 8th and the 11th of september, alexander stephens, james berger and the writer started for the site that had been selected by mr. marshall for the sawmill; we were the first mormons to arrive at the place. peter l. wimmer and family and william scott had preceded us a few days, having two wagons loaded with tools and provisions; the teams were oxen, and were driven by two of captain sutter's civilized indians. some weeks after we went up, henry w. bigler, azariah smith, william johnston, and israel evans, members of the mormon battalion, came to the camp.
upon our arrival at the millsite, work was begun in earnest. the cabin was finished, a second room being put on in true frontier style. while some worked on the cabin, others were getting out timbers and preparing for the erection of the sawmill. the site was at a point where the river made considerable of a bend, just in the bank of what appeared to be an old river bed, which was lowered to carry the water from the mill.
between january 15th and 20th, 1848, the mill was started up. it was found that it had been set too low, and the tail race would not carry off the water, which would drown or kill the flutter wheel. to remedy this defect, several new pieces of timber were needed, and all hands were put to work within ten or fifteen rods of the tail race, getting out the timbers.
part of the time i was engaged in directing the labors of a gang of digger indians, as i had picked up sufficient of their dialect to make them understand me clearly. it had been customary to hoist the gates of the forebay when we quit work in the evening, letting the water through the race to wash away the loosened sand and gravel, then close them down in the morning. the indians were employed to dig and cast out the cable rock that was not moved by the water.
on january 23, i had turned away from the indians and was with the white men. mr. marshall came along to look over the work in general, and went to where the tail race entered the river. there he discovered a bed of rock that had been exposed by the water the night before, the portion in view in the bottom of the race being three to six feet wide and fifteen to twenty feet long. mr. marshall called me to him as he examined the bed of the race, and said: "this is a curious rock; i am afraid it will give us trouble." then he probed a little further, and added: "i believe it contains minerals of some kind, and i believe there is gold in these hills."
at this statement i inquired, "what makes you think so?" he answered that he had seen blossom of gold, and upon my asking where, he said it was the white quartz scattered over the hills; on my inquiring further as to what quartz was, he told me it was the white, flint-like rock so plentiful on the hills. i said it was flint rock, but he said no, it was called quartz in some book he had read, and was an indication of gold. he sent me to the cabin for a pan to wash the sand and gravel, and see what we could find. i went to a cabin which had been built near the millsite by alexander stephens, henry w. bigler, james berger, azariah smith, william johnston and myself, and in which we were doing our own cooking. i brought the pan and we washed some of the bedrock that we had scaled up with a pick. as we had no idea of the appearance of gold in its natural state, our search was unsuccessful.
mr. marshall was determined to investigate further, but it was no use that night. he rose and said: "we will hoist the gates and turn in all the water that we can tonight, and tomorrow morning we will shut it off and come down here, and i believe we will find gold or some other mineral here."
