the valley of acadia—a morning ride to the dykes—an unexpected wild-duck chase—high tides—the gasperau—sunset—the lamp of history—conclusion.
the eastern sun glittered on roof and window-pane next morning. neat houses in the midst of trim gardens, rise tier above tier on the hill-slopes that overlook the prairie lands. a green expanse, several miles in width, extends to the edge of the dykes, and in the distance, upon its verge, here and there a farmhouse looms up in the warm haze of a summer morning. on the left hand the meadows roll away until they are merged in the bases of the cliffs that, stretching forth over the blue water of the basin, end abruptly at cape blomidon. these cliffs are precise counterparts of our own palisades, on the hudson. then to the right, again, the vision follows the hazy coast-line until it melts in the indistinct outline of wave and vapor, back of which rises the gasperau mountain, that protects the valley on the east with corresponding barriers of rock and forest. within this hemicycle lie the waters[pg 303] of minas, bounded on the north by the horizon-line, the clouds and the sky.
once happy acadia nestled in this valley. does it not seem incredible that even puritan tyranny could have looked with hard and pitiless eyes upon such a scene, and invade with rapine, sword and fire, the peace and serenity of a land so fair?
a morning ride across the grand-pré convinced me that the natural opulence of the valley had not been exaggerated. these once desolate and bitter marshes, reclaimed from the sea by the patient labor of the french peasant, are about three miles broad by twenty miles long. the prairie grass, even at this time of year, is knee-deep, and, as i was informed, yields, without cultivation, from two to four tons to the acre. the fertility of the valley in other respects is equally great. the dyke lands are intersected by a network of white causeways, raised above the level of the meadows. we passed over these to the outer edge of the dykes. "these lands," said my young companion, "are filled in this season with immense flocks of all kinds of feathered game." and i soon had reason to be convinced of the truth of it, for just then we started up what seemed to be a wounded wild-duck, upon which out leaped my companion from the wagon and gave chase. a bunch of tall grass, upon the[pg 304] edge of a little pool, lay between him and the game; he brushed hastily through this, and out of it poured a little feathered colony. as these young ones were not yet able to fly, they were soon captured—seven little black ducks safely nestled together under the seat of the wagon, and poor niobe trailed her broken wing within a tempting distance in vain.
we were soon upon the dykes themselves, which are raised upon the edge of the meadows, and are quite insignificant in height, albeit of great extent otherwise. but from the bottom of the dykes to the edge of yonder sparkling water, there is a bare beach, full three miles in extent. what does this mean? what are these dykes for, if the enemy is so far off? the answer to this query discloses a remarkable phenomenon. the tide in this part of the world rises sixty or seventy feet every twelve hours. at present the beach is bare; the five rivers of the valley—the gasperau, the cornwallis, the canard, the habitant, the perot—are empty. betimes the tide will roll in in one broad unretreating wave, surging and shouldering its way over the expanse, filling all the rivers, and dashing against the protecting barriers under our feet; but before sunset the rivers will be emptied again, the bridges will uselessly hang in the air over the deserted channels, the beach will yawn wide and bare where[pg 305] a ship of the line might have anchored. sometimes a stranger schooner from new england, secure in a safe distance from shore, drops down in six or seven fathom. then, suddenly, the ebb sweeps off from the intruder, and leaves his two-master keeled over, with useless anchor and cable exposed, "to point a moral and adorn a tale." sometimes a party will take boat for a row upon the placid bosom of this bay; but woe unto them if they consult not the almanac! a mistake may leave them high and dry on the beach, miles from the dykes, and as the tide comes in with a bore, a sudden influx, wave above wave, the risk is imminent.
i passed two days in this happy valley, sometimes riding across to the dykes, sometimes visiting the neighboring villages, sometimes wandering on foot over the hills to the upper waters of the rivers. and the gasperau in particular is an attractive little mountain sylph, as it comes skipping down the rocks, breaking here and there out in a broad cascade, or rippling and singing in the heart of the grand old forest. i think my friend kensett might set his pallet here, and pitch a brief tent by minas and the gasperau to advantage. for my own part, i would that i had my trout-pole and a fly!
but now the sun sinks behind the cliffs of blow-me-down. to-morrow i must take the[pg 306] steamer for home, "sweet home!" what shall i say in conclusion? shall i stop here and write finis, or once more trim the lamp of history? i feel as it were the whole wrongs of the french province concentrated here, as in the last drop of its life blood, no tender dream of pastoral description, no clever veil of elaborate verse, can conceal the hideous features of this remorseless act, this wanton and useless deed of new england cruelty. do not mistake me, my reader. do not think that i am prejudiced against new england. but i hate tyranny—under whatever disguise, or in whatever shape—in an individual, or in a nation—in a state, or in a congregation of states; so do you; and of course you will agree with me, that so long as the maxim obtains, "that the object justifies the means," certain effects must follow, and this maxim was the guiding star of our forefathers when they marched into the french province.
the peculiar situation of the acadians, embarrassed the colonists of massachusetts. the french neutrals, had taken the oath of fidelity, but they refused to take the oath of allegiance which compelled them to bear arms against their countrymen, and the indians, who from first to last had been their constant and devoted friends. the long course of persecution, for a century and a half,[pg 307] had struck but one spark of resistance from this people—the stand of the three hundred young warriors at fort séjour. upon this act followed the retaliation of the pilgrim fathers. they determined to remove and disperse the acadians among the british colonies. to carry out this edict, colonel winslow, with five transports and a sufficient force of new england troops, was dispatched to the basin of minas. at a consultation, held between colonel winslow and captain murray, it was agreed that a proclamation should be issued at the different settlements, requiring the attendance of the people at the respective posts on the same day; which proclamation would be so ambiguous in its nature, that the object for which they were to assemble could not be discerned, and so peremptory in its terms, as to insure implicit obedience. this instrument having been drafted and approved, was distributed according to the original plan. that which was addressed to the people inhabiting the country now comprised within the limit of king's county, was as follows:
"'to the inhabitants of the district of grand-pré, minas, river canard, etc.; as well ancient, as young men and lads:
"'whereas, his excellency the governor has[pg 308] instructed us of his late resolution, respecting the matter proposed to the inhabitants, and has ordered us to communicate the same in person, his excellency, being desirous that each of them should be fully satisfied of his majesty's intentions, which he has also ordered us to communicate to you, such as they have been given to him: we therefore order and strictly enjoin, by these presents, all of the inhabitants, as well of the above-named district, as of all the other districts, both old men and young men, as well as all the lads of ten years of age, to attend at the church at grand-pré, on friday the fifth instant, at three of the clock in the afternoon, that we may impart to them what we are ordered to communicate to them; declaring that no excuse will be admitted on any pretence whatever, on pain of forfeiting goods and chattels, in default of real estate.—given at grand-pré, second september, 1755, and twenty-ninth year of his majesty's reign.
john winslow.'
"in obedience to this summons, four hundred and eighteen able-bodied men assembled. these being shut into the church (for that too had become an arsenal), colonel winslow placed himself with his officers, in the centre, and addressed them thus:[pg 309]
"'gentlemen: i have received from his excellency, governor lawrence, the king's commission, which i have in my hand; and by his orders you are convened together, to manifest to you his majesty's final resolution to the french inhabitants of this his province of nova scotia; who, for almost half a century, have had more indulgence granted them than any of his subjects in any part of his dominions; what use you have made of it you yourselves best know. the part of duty i am now upon, though necessary, is very disagreeable to my natural make and temper, as i know it must be grievous to you, who are of the same species; but it is not my business to animadvert, but to obey such orders as i receive, and therefore, without hesitation, shall deliver you his majesty's orders and instructions, namely, that your lands and tenements, cattle of all kinds and live stock of all sorts, are forfeited to the crown; with all other your effects, saving your money and household goods, and you yourselves to be removed from this his province.
"'thus it is peremptorily his majesty's orders, that the whole french inhabitants of these districts be removed; and i am, through his majesty's goodness, directed to allow you liberty to carry off your money and household goods, as many as you[pg 310] can without discommoding the vessels you go in. i shall do everything in my power that all those goods be secured to you, and that you are not molested in carrying them off; also that whole families shall go in the same vessel, and make this remove, which i am sensible must give you a great deal of trouble, as easy as his majesty's service will admit: and hope that, in whatever part of the world you may fall, you may be faithful subjects, a peaceable and happy people. i must also inform you that it is his majesty's pleasure that you remain in security under the inspection and direction of the troops i have the honor to command.'
"the poor people, unconscious of any crime, and full of concern for having incurred his majesty's displeasure, petitioned colonel winslow for leave to visit their families, and entreated him to detain a part only of the prisoners as hostages; urging with tears and prayers their intention to fulfill their promise of returning after taking leave of their kindred and consoling them in their distresses and misfortunes. the answer of colonel winslow to this petition was to grant leave of absence to twenty only, for a single day. this sentence they bore with fortitude and resignation, but when the hour of embarkation arrived, in which they were[pg 311] to part with their friends and relatives without a hope of ever seeing them again, and to be dispersed among strangers, whose language, customs, and religion, were opposed to their own, the weakness of human nature prevailed, and they were overpowered with the sense of their miseries. the young men were first ordered to go on board of one of the vessels. this they instantly and peremptorily refused to do, declaring that they would not leave their parents; but expressed a willingness to comply with the order, provided they were permitted to embark with their families. the request was rejected, and the troops were ordered to fix bayonets and advance toward the prisoners, a motion which had the effect of producing obedience on the part of the young men, who forthwith commenced their march. the road from the chapel to the shore—just one mile in length—was crowded with women and children; who, on their knees, greeted them as they passed, with their tears and their blessings; while the prisoners advanced with slow and reluctant steps, weeping, praying, and singing hymns. this detachment was followed by the seniors, who passed through the same scene of sorrow and distress. in this manner was the whole male part of the population of the district of minas put on board the five transports stationed in the river gasperau."[pg 312]
now, my dear lady; you who have followed the fortunes of evangeline, in longfellow's beautiful poem, and haply wept over her weary pilgrimage, pray give a thought to the rest of the 18,000 sent into a similar exile! and you, my dear friend, who have listened to the oracles of plymouth pulpits, take a sabbath afternoon, and calmly consider how far you may venture to place your faith upon it, whether you can subscribe to the idolatrous worship of that boulder stone, and say—
"rock of ages cleft for me,
let me to thy bosom flee;"
or whether you measure any other act between this present time and the past eighteen hundred years, except by the eternal principles of righteousness and truth?
gentle reader, as we sit in this little inn-room, and see the ragged edge of the moon shimmering over the meadows of grand-pré, do we not feel a touch of the sin that soiled her garments a hundred years ago? had we not better abstain from blowing our puritan trumpets so loudly, and wreathe with crape our banners for a season? let us rather date from more recent achievements. let us take a fresh start in history and brag of nothing that antedates bunker hill. here everybody has a hand to[pg 313] applaud. but for the age that preceded it, the least said about it the better! there, out lamp! and good night! to-morrow "home, sweet home!" but i love this province!
