two days after i had arrived at entebbe the governor took me over to kampala. the distance between the ancient and the administrative capital is about twenty-four miles. the road, although unmetalled, runs over such firm, smooth sandstone, almost polished by the rains, that, except in a few places, it would carry a motor-car well, and a bicycle is an excellent means of progression. the uganda government motor-cars, which are now running well and regularly, had not then, however, arrived, and the usual method was to travel by rickshaw. mounted in this light bicycle-wheeled carriage, drawn by one man between the shafts and pushed by three more from behind, we were able to make rather more than six miles an hour in very comfortable style.
the rickshaw-boys, who were neatly dressed 105 in white tunics and red caps, were relieved every eight miles. they have their own way of doing business. from the moment when the travellers are seated in the rickshaw and their labour begins, they embark upon an ever-varying but absolutely interminable antiphony, which, if it exhausts their breath, serves undoubtedly to keep their spirits up. "burrulum," cry the pushers; "huma," says the puller. "burrulum," say the pushers again, and so on over and over again for a very long time. all these chaunts have their meanings, and if the traveller is found to be heavy or known to be ignorant of the language, he would not always be complimented by a correct translation. the phrase i have quoted means "iron upon wood"; and its signification is that the iron of european strength and skill, however superior, yet cannot get along without the wood of native labour and endurance. with such unexceptionable sentiments no one would quarrel. yet even these lose their flavour by repetition, and after half an hour of "burrulum" and "huma" i was constrained to ask the singers whether they could not possibly manage to convey us in silence. they tried their best, but i could see they were unhappy, 106 and after a while, out of compassion and to improve the pace, i withdrew the ban, and the chorus was joyfully resumed in a new and more elaborate form.
the manners of the baganda are ceremonious to a degree. they well deserve sir harry johnston's description of them as "the japanese of africa." if you say "good morning" to a stranger on an english road, it is as like as not that his surprise will throw him into a posture of self-defence; but when two baganda meet they begin to salute each other as soon as they come within earshot. "how are you?" cries the one. "who am i that you should care to know?" replies the other. "humble though i be, yet i have dared," rejoins the first. "but say first how are you," continues the second. "the better for the honour you have done me," is the answer. by this they have already passed each other, and there is only time for the parthian affability, "the honour is mine, and i shall treasure it," and a quavering of delicately-modulated, long-drawn "a—a—a's" of contentment and goodwill which gradually die away in the distance, leaving neither of them the worse circumstanced, nor the better 107 informed. i must add, for the reader's caution, that the aforesaid dialogue is not an invariable ritual. the phrases may be varied ad infinitum to suit the occasion; but it will suffice as an illustration of these roadside courtesies.
baganda warriors at kampala.
if you wish to make a baganda perfectly happy, all you need to do is to say, "way wally," which means a sort of supremely earnest "well done." the moment this talismanic expression has left your lips, the native to whom it is addressed will probably fall on his knees, and, clasping his two hands together, will sway them from side to side, as if he were playing a concertina, while all the time his face beams with a most benignant and compulsive smile, and he purrs, "a—o, a—o, a—o," as much as to say, "my cup of joy is overflowing." it is not in accordance with our ideas that man should kneel to man, and one feels uncomfortable to see it done. yet it should not be thought that the action, as performed by the baganda, involves or implies any servility. it is their good manners—and meant to be no more. nor, once you are used to it, do they seem to lose at all in dignity. only they win your heart.
the road from entebbe to kampala passes 108 through delicious country. along its whole length a double avenue of rubber trees has just been planted, and behind these on each side are broad strips of cotton plants, looking beautiful with their yellow flowers or pinky-white bolls. american upland cotton grown in uganda actually commands a higher price in the manchester market than when it is grown in the united states. there appears to be practically no natural difficulty in its cultivation throughout the larger part of uganda. a great development is only a question of organization and—money.
but i have forgotten that we have been moving swiftly along the kampala road, and now we are almost in sight of the city. almost, but not quite; for, to tell the truth, no one has ever seen kampala. the traveller sees the government buildings and residences neat and prim on one hill; he sees the king's house and his ministers' houses on another. upon a third, a fourth, or a fifth hill he may discern successively the protestant cathedral, the catholic mission, and the white father's monastery. but kampala, the home of sixty thousand persons, is permanently invisible. the whole town is buried under the leaves 109 of innumerable banana plantations, which afford shade and food to its people, and amid which their huts are thickly scattered and absolutely concealed.
king daudi's drummers at kampala.
watching the war-dance at kampala.
(major jenkins, mr. churchill, king daudi, sir h. hesketh bell.)
we were still three miles out of this "garden city" when the native reception began, and we travelled for a quarter of a mile between lines of white-robed baganda, all mustered by their chiefs, and clapping their hands in sign of welcome. at last our procession of rickshaws reached a hillock by the roadside, at the top of which stood a pavilion, beautifully constructed of stout elephant grass like thin polished canes woven together with curious art. down from this eminence, over a pathway strewn with rushes, came to meet us the king and his notables in a most imposing array. daudi chewa, the king or kabaka of uganda, is a graceful, distinguished-looking little boy, eleven years old. he was simply dressed in a flowing black robe edged with gold, and a little white gold-rimmed cap. around him were the council of regency; and at his right hand stood the prime minister, sir apolo kagwar, a powerful, determined-looking man, wearing a crimson, gold-laced robe, on which shone 110 many decorations, several british war medals, and the order of st. michael and st. george.
we all shook hands, and were then led up into the pavilion, where we took our seats on wicker chairs and ate sweet jellies while we conversed. the king, who is being most carefully educated by an english tutor, understands and speaks english quite well, but on this occasion he seemed too shy to say much more than "yes" or "no," in a low, sweet drawl, and this formal interview soon came to an end.
the afternoon was consumed in ceremony; for the commissioner of uganda had to be sworn in the rank of governor, to which he has been lately raised; and there was a parade of troops, in which some five or six hundred very smart-looking soldiers took part, headed by the kampala company of sikhs. it was not until the shadows began to lengthen that we visited the kabaka on the royal hill. he received us in his parliament house. in this large and beautifully-constructed grass building about seventy chiefs and baganda notables were assembled. the little kabaka sat on his throne, and his subjects grouped themselves around and before him. we were 111 given seats at his side, and the prime minister explained that the baganda would show us the ceremony of swearing a chief. one of the most portly and dignified of the councillors thereupon advanced into the centre of the room, threw himself face downward on the ground, and poured out a torrent of asseverations of loyalty. after a few minutes he rose and began brandishing his spears, chaunting his oath all the while, until he had created an extraordinary appearance of passion. finally he rushed from the building to go and slay the king's enemies outside. it was not until he returned a moment later, calm, sedate, and respectable, that i realized, from the merry smile on his face and from the mirth of the company, that he was "only pretending," and that the ceremony was merely a representation given to interest us.
on the way to kampala.
road between jinja and lake chioga.
the incident is remarkable because it illustrates the rapidity with which the baganda people are leaving their past behind them. already they laugh at their old selves. ceremonies which twenty years ago had a solemn and awful significance, are to-day reproduced by this reflective people in much the same spirit as the citizens of coventry 112 revive the progress of lady godiva. the same thing happened at the war-dance the next day. two or three thousand men, naked and painted for war, rushed frantically to and fro to the beating of drums and barbaric music, with every sign of earnestness and even frenzy. yet a few minutes later they were laughing sheepishly at one another, and bowing to us like actors before the curtain, and the prime minister was making a speech to explain that this was meant to be a pageant of the bad old times reproduced for our benefit. indeed, so unaccustomed to carry arms had the warriors become that not one in ten could find a spear to arm himself with, and they had to come with sticks and other stage-properties.
even a comic element was provided in the shape of a warrior painted all over in a ridiculous manner, and held by two others with a rope tied round his middle. this, we were told, was "the bravest man in the army," who had to be restrained lest he should rush into battle too soon. it is not easy to convey the air of honest fun and good humour which pervaded these curious performances, or to measure the intellectual progress which the attitude of the baganda towards them implied. 113
war dance at kampala.
"the bravest man in the army."
war dance at kampala.
the kabaka gave us tea in his house. it is a comfortable european building, quite small and modest, but nicely furnished, and adorned with familiar english prints and portraits of queen victoria and king edward. gradually he got the better of his shyness, and told me that he liked football more than anything else, and that his mathematical studies had advanced as far as "g.c.m.," initials which never fail to stir disagreeable school-day memories in my mind. he can write a very good letter in english, rides well on a nice pony, and will probably become a well-educated and accomplished man. altogether it is a very pleasing spectacle to find in the heart of africa, and amid so much barbarism, squalour, and violence, this island of gentle manners and peaceful civilization.
the next day was one unending pilgrimage. i have described how kampala lies under the leaves of the plantain groves about the slopes of many hills. each hill has its special occupants and purpose. each of the different christian missions has a hill to itself, and in the bad old days a maxim gun was not thought at all an inappropriate aid to christian endeavour. it would, however, be very 114 unfair to charge the missionaries with having created the feuds and struggles which convulsed uganda twelve years ago. the accident that the line of cleavage between french and british influence was also the line of cleavage between catholic and protestant converts, imparted a religious complexion to what was in reality a fierce political dispute. these troubles are now definitely at an end. the arrival upon the scene of an english catholic mission has prevented national rivalries and religious differences from mutually embittering one another. the erection of a stable government and the removal of all doubts about the future of uganda have led to an entire abatement of strife among devoted men engaged in a noble work. not only is there peace among the different christian missions themselves, but the government of uganda, so far from watching missionary enterprise with sour disfavour, is thoroughly alive to the inestimable services which have been and are daily being rendered by the missions to the native population, and excellent relations prevail.
the white fathers' mission at kampala.
children at the english catholic mission, kampala.
in duty bound i climbed one hill after another and endeavoured to make myself 115 acquainted with the details of mission work in kampala. it comprises every form of moral and social activity. apart from their spiritual work, which needs no advocacy here, the missionaries have undertaken and are now maintaining the whole educational system of the country. they have built many excellent schools, and thousands of young baganda are being taught to read and write in their own language. the whole country is dotted with subsidiary mission stations, each one a centre of philanthropic and christian effort. there are good hospitals, with skilful doctors and nurses or sisters of charity, in connection with all the missions. the largest of these, belonging to the church missionary society, is a model of what a tropical hospital for natives ought to be. technical education is now being added to these services, and in this, it is to be hoped, the government will be able to cooperate. i do not know of any other part of the world where missionary influence and enterprise have been so beneficently exerted, or where more valuable results have been achieved.
on namirembe hill, where the church missionary society have their head-quarters, a 116 really fine cathedral, with three tall, quaint, thatched spires, has been built out of very primitive materials; and this is almost the only building in uganda which offers the slightest attempt at architectural display. under the shadow of this i found myself on the afternoon of the 20th of november engaged in opening a high school for scholars who are more advanced than can be instructed in the existing establishments. a large and well-dressed audience, native and european, filled a good-sized room. the scholars crowded together in a solid mass of white-dressed youths upon the floor. the kabaka and sir apolo kagwar, who has himself five sons at the school, were upon the platform. the governor presided. the bishop made a speech. the schoolboys sang english songs and hymns in very good tune and rhythm. it was astonishing to look at the map of the british empire hanging on the wall and to realize that all this was taking place near the north-western corner of the victoria nyanza.
interior of namirembe cathedral.
it is eight miles from kampala to munyonyo, its present port on the lake, and this distance we covered in rickshaws over a shocking road. munyonyo is itself little more than a jetty and 117 a few sheds, but it affords a very good example of the salutary effects of cutting down the bush and forest. mosquitoes and tsetses have been absolutely banished from the cleared area, and a place which a year ago was a death-trap is now perfectly safe and healthy. plans are now on foot to make a new port a little farther along the coast at a point only five miles away from kampala; and when this has been connected with the capital, as it must be, by a line of mono-rail tramway, there is every reason to expect a substantial and growing trade.
the sir william mackinnon, a venerable vessel of the uganda marine, awaited our party, and we steamed off on the smooth waters of the lake, through an archipelago of beautiful islands—each one more inviting than the other—and all depopulated by sleeping sickness. all day long we voyaged in these sheltered waters, and in the evening the lights of jinja guided us to our destination. one cannot help admiring the luck which led speke to his thrilling discovery of the source of the nile. there are five hundred gulfs and inlets on the northern shore of lake victoria, and nothing distinguishes this one from the 118 rest. no current is perceptible to the ordinary mariner until within a few miles of the rapids, and although the presumption that so vast a body of fresh water would have an overflow somewhere had behind it a backing of strong probability, the explorer might have searched for a year without finding the spot. instead of which he drifted and paddled gently along until all of a sudden the murmur of a distant cataract and the slight acceleration in the pace of his canoe drew him to the long-sought birthplace of the most wonderful river in the world.
it was dark when we landed at jinja, and i could not properly see the preparations made for our reception by the local chiefs and the indian traders, of whom there was a considerable crowd. the darkness, otherwise a cause of disappointment, afforded the opportunity for just the sort of brave act one so often finds a british officer ready to do. as the baggage was being landed from the steamer on to the jetty, a poor coolie slipped under his load, and in an instant was engulfed in the deep black waters below. whereupon, as a matter of course, a young civilian in the political department jumped in after him in the darkness and among the crocodiles, and fished him out safe 119 and sound, an act of admirable behaviour which has since received the recognition of the royal humane society. i am not quite sure that in all parts of africa so high a standard of honour and respect for the life of the humble native would prevail.
jinja is destined to become a very important place in the future economy of central africa. situated at the point where the nile flows out of the great lake, it is at once on the easiest line of water communication with lake albert and the soudan, and also where great water-power is available. in years to come the shores of this splendid bay may be crowned with long rows of comfortable tropical villas and imposing offices, and the gorge of the nile crowded with factories and warehouses. there is power enough to gin all the cotton and saw all the wood in uganda, and it is here that one of the principal emporia of tropical produce will certainly be created. in these circumstances it is a pity to handicap the town with an outlandish name. it would be much better to call it ripon falls, after the beautiful cascades which lie beneath it, and from whose force its future prosperity will be derived. 120
the ripon falls are, for their own sake, well worth a visit. the nile springs out of the victoria nyanza, a vast body of water nearly as wide as the thames at westminster bridge, and this imposing river rushes down a stairway of rock from fifteen to twenty feet deep, in smooth, swirling slopes of green water. it would be perfectly easy to harness the whole river and let the nile begin its long and beneficent journey to the sea by leaping through a turbine. it is possible that nowhere else in the world could so enormous a mass of water be held up by so little masonry. two or three short dams from island to island across the falls would enable, at an inconceivably small cost, the whole level of the victoria nyanza—over an expanse of a hundred and fifty thousand square miles—to be gradually raised six or seven feet; would greatly increase the available water-power; would deepen the water in kavirondo bay, so as to admit steamers of much larger draught; and, finally, would enable the lake to be maintained at a uniform level, so that immense areas of swampy foreshore, now submerged, now again exposed, according to the rainfalls, would be converted either into clear water or dry land, 121 to the benefit of man and the incalculable destruction of mosquitoes.
the ripon falls (source of the nile).
as one watches the surging waters of the ripon falls and endeavours to compute the mighty energies now running to waste, but all within the reach of modern science, the problem of uganda rises in a new form on the mind. all this water-power belongs to the state. ought it ever to be surrendered to private persons? how long, on the other hand, is a government, if not prepared to act itself, entitled to bar the way to others? this question is raised in a multitude of diverse forms in almost all the great dependencies of the crown. but in uganda the arguments for the state ownership and employment of the natural resources of the country seem to present themselves in their strongest and most formidable array. uganda is a native state. it must not be compared with any of those colonies where there is a white population already established, nor again with those inhabited by tribes of nomadic barbarians. it finds its counterparts among the great native states of india, where imperial authority is exercised in the name and often through the agency of a native prince and his own officers. 122
this combination of the external brain and the native hand results in a form of government often highly acceptable to the general body of the inhabitants, who are confronted with no sudden or arbitrary changes in the long-accustomed appearances of things. but it involves all the administration of affairs in a degree of complexity and delicacy which is absent from simpler and cruder systems. in such circumstances there cannot be much opening for the push and drive of ordinary commercial enterprise. the hustling business man—admirably suited to the rough and tumble of competitive production in europe or america—becomes an incongruous and even a dangerous figure when introduced into the smooth and leisurely development of a native state. the baganda will not be benefited either morally or materially by contact with modern money-making or modern money-makers. when a man is working only for the profits of his company and is judged by the financial results alone, he does not often under the sun of central africa acquire the best method of dealing with natives; and all sorts of difficulties and troubles will follow any sudden incursion of business enterprise 123 into the forests and gardens of uganda. and even if the country is more rapidly developed by these agencies, the profits will not go to the government and people of uganda, to be used in fostering new industries, but to divers persons across the sea, who have no concern, other than purely commercial, in its fortunes. this is not to advocate the arbitrary exclusion of private capital and enterprise from uganda. carefully directed and narrowly controlled opportunities for their activities will no doubt occur. but the natural resources of the country should, as far as possible, be developed by the government itself, even though that may involve the assumption of many new functions.
indeed, it would be hard to find a country where the conditions were more favourable than in uganda to a practical experiment in state socialism. the land is rich; the people pacific and industrious. there are no great differences between class and class. one staple article of food meets the needs of the whole population, and produces itself almost without the aid of man. there are no european vested interests to block the way. nowhere are the powers of the government 124 to regulate and direct the activities of the people more overwhelming or more comprehensive. the superiority of knowledge in the rulers is commanding. their control upon the natives is exerted through almost every channel; and besides the secular authorities—native and imperial—there is the spiritual and educative influence of the missionaries to infuse human sympathy and moral earnestness into the regular machinery of state.
the first, and perhaps the greatest, difficulty which confronts the european socialist is the choosing of governors to whom the positively awful powers indispensable to a communistic society are to be entrusted. if a race of beings could be obtained when and as required from a neighbouring planet, whose practical superiority in virtue, science, wisdom, and strength was so manifest as to be universally acclaimed, this difficulty would disappear, and we might with composure await the decision of popular elections with all their defects and advantages. but in the absence of this dispensation the problem of how rulers are to be selected, and how, having been selected, they are to be controlled or changed, remains the first question of politics, 125 even in days when the functions of government are, in general, restricted to the modest limits of laissez-faire.
in uganda, however, this difficulty does not exist. a class of rulers is provided by an outside power as remote from and, in all that constitutes fitness to direct, as superior to the baganda as mr. wells's martians would have been to us. the british administration is in its personnel absolutely disinterested. the officials draw their salaries, and that is all. they have no end to serve, except the improvement of the country and the contentment of its people. by that test and that test alone are they judged. in no other way can they win approbation or fame. they are furthermore controlled in the exercise of their functions by a superior authority, specially instructed in this class of administration, and itself answerable to a parliament elected on a democratic franchise. at no point in the whole chain of command is there any room for corruption, usurpation, or gross inefficiency.
it is clear that larger powers could be entrusted to the state in regard to the labour of its citizens than would ever be accorded to private employers. the subjects of every 126 european power have accepted the obligation of military service to defend their respective countries from external attack. the baganda, relieved from this harsh obsession, have no higher duty than to cultivate and develop the beautiful land they live in. and if it were desired to organize scientifically, upon a humane and honourable basis, the industry of an entire population, and to apply the whole fruits of their labour to their own enrichment and elevation, no better conditions are likely to be discovered than those which now exist in uganda.
it might at any rate be worth while to make such an experiment, if only as a prelude to those more general applications of the principles of socialism which are held in some quarters to be so necessary.
