"colour" is already the dominant question at nairobi. "we mean to make east africa a white man's country," cries, in strident tones, the colonists' association on every occasion. truly a respectable and impressive policy; but one which seems, at first sight, rather difficult to achieve in a land where there are, so far, fewer than two thousand five hundred whites and more than four million black aboriginals. can east africa ever become a white man's country? can even the highlands, with their cool and buoyant breezes and temperate, unchanging climate, become a white man's country? never, certainly, in the sense that canada, or, indeed, the united kingdom, are white men's countries—that is to say, countries inhabited wholly by white people and subsisting upon an economic basis of white unskilled labour. 46

it is scarcely worth while even to imagine the highlands of east africa denuded of their native inhabitants and occupied solely by europeans. such an idea is utterly impossible. whatever may be the increase in the white population in the future, it is safe to say that it will be far more than counter-balanced by the multiplication of the natives, as they are guarded against famine and prevented from civil war. but were such a solution possible, it would be almost the last thing in the world desired by those who clamour for "a white man's country." for observe it is not against the black aboriginal that the prejudices and interests of the white settler or trader are arrayed. the african, it is conceded, is welcome to stay in his own country. no economic competition has yet arisen or is likely to arise between him and the new-comers. their spheres of activity lie wholly apart, for the white man absolutely refuses to do black man's work; not for that harsh toil does he exile himself from the land of his birth; while the native could not, in his present state of development, displace the white man in skilled employments and the superintendence and the organization of 47 industry—even if he would—and nothing is farther from his ambitions.

it is the brown man who is the rival. the european has neither the wish nor the power to constitute a white proletariat in countries like east africa. in his view the blacks should be the private soldiers of the army, but the non-commissioned officers and the commanders must be white. this should not be dismissed as a mere assertion of racial arrogance. it is an obstinate fact. it is already a grave defect for a community to found itself upon the manual labour of an inferior race, and many are the complications and perils that spring therefrom. but what of the second storey? if there is to be any kind of white society dwelling together year after year within the standards of life and comfort to which europeans have universally been accustomed to aspire, and largely to attain, this middle stage in the economic system must provide that white society with the means of earning—as professional men, as planters, merchants, traders, farmers, bankers, overseers, contractors, builders, engineers, accountants, clerks—a living for themselves and their families. and here strikes in the 48 asiatic. in every single employment of this class, his power of subsisting upon a few shillings a month, his industry, his thrift, his sharp business aptitudes give him the economic superiority, and if economic superiority is to be the final rule—as it has never been and never will be in the history of the world—there is not a single employment of this middle class, from which he will not, to a very large extent, clear the white man, as surely and as remorselessly as the brown rat extirpated the black from british soil.

then what remains? what sort of social organizations shall we be building up with so much thought and labour in these new lands under the british crown? there is already no white working class. there is to be no white middle class. room is left only for the capitalist pure and simple—if one may so describe him. a vast army of african labourers, officered by educated indians or chinese, and directed by a few individuals of diverse nationalities employing cosmopolitan capital—that is the nightmare which haunts the white population of south africa, and at which what there is of a white population in east africa is already shrieking vigorously. 49

yet hear the other side. how stands the claim of the british indian? his rights as a human being, his rights as a british subject, are equally engaged. it was the sikh soldier who bore an honourable part in the conquest and pacification of these east african countries. it is the indian trader who, penetrating and maintaining himself in all sorts of places to which no white man would go or in which no white man could earn a living, has more than any one else developed the early beginnings of trade and opened up the first slender means of communication. it was by indian labour that the one vital railway on which everything else depends was constructed. it is the indian banker who supplies perhaps the larger part of the capital yet available for business and enterprise, and to whom the white settlers have not hesitated to recur for financial aid. the indian was here long before the first british official. he may point to as many generations of useful industry on the coast and inland as the white settlers—especially the most recently-arrived contingents from south africa (the loudest against him of all)—can count years of residence. is it possible for any government with a scrap of respect for honest dealing 50 between man and man, to embark upon a policy of deliberately squeezing out the native of india from regions in which he has established himself under every security of public faith? most of all must we ask, is such a policy possible to the government which bears sway over three hundred millions of our indian empire?

we are in presence of one of those apparently hopeless antagonisms of interests which baffle and dispirit all who are concerned in their adjustment. and these questions are not confined to east africa or to south africa. a whole series of new problems has arisen, and will grow graver and larger as the immediate history of the british empire unfolds. they erect themselves upon a field almost wholly unstudied, and familiar only by the prejudices which in every direction obstruct movement and view. the entry of the asiatic as labourer, trader, and capitalist into competition in industry and enterprise not only with, but in, the western world is a new fact of first importance. cheap, swift, easy means of communication, the establishment of peace and order over land and sea, the ever-growing inter-dependence of all men and all 51 countries upon one another, have given wings to asiatic commercial ambition and rendered asiatic manual labour fluid, as it has never before been fluid since the beginning of things.

unless these new elements in the economic life of mankind can be scientifically and harmoniously controlled and assimilated, great and novel dangers menace alike the asiatic and the european he supplants. on the one hand we see the possible exploitation under various unhealthy conditions of immense masses of asiatic labour, to the moral injury of the employer and to the degradation and suffering of the employed; on the other the overturn of the standards of living laboriously achieved or long obstinately battled for among europeans. superadded to these we must foresee the confusion of blood, of manners, of morals, amounting, where operative upon any extensive scale, almost to the disintegration of the existing order of society. and behind—very close behind—lie the appeals to force, by mobs or empires, to decide in a brutal fashion the brutal question which of two sets of irreconcilable interests shall prevail. it is not easy to measure the degree of political instability that will be introduced into international 52 relations, when the subjects of a powerful military and naval state are continually exposed to penal legislation and open violence, and into private life when the white artisan is invited to acquiesce in his own extinction, in virtue of laws which he himself controls, by a competitor whom, he believes, he could strike down with his hands.

yet the asiatic, and here i also include the african native, has immense services to render and energies to contribute to the happiness and material progress of the world. there are spacious lands whose promise can never be realized, there are unnumbered harvests which can never be garnered, without his active co-operation. there are roads and railways and reservoirs which only he can make. there are mines and forests which will slumber for ever without his aid. the mighty continent of tropical africa lies open to the colonizing and organizing capacities of the east. all those new products which modern industry insistently demands are offered in measureless abundance to the west—if only we could solve the sphinx's riddle in its newest form.

and is it after all beyond our reach to 53 provide, if not a perfect, at any rate a practical answer? there ought to be no insuperable difficulty, in the present state of political knowledge and social organization, in assigning different spheres to the external activity of different races. the great powers have partitioned africa territorially; is it beyond the wit of man to divide it economically? the co-operation of many different kinds of men is needed for the cultivation of such a noble estate. is it impossible to regulate in full and intricate detail the conditions under which that co-operation shall take place? here white men can live and thrive; there they cannot. here is a task for one, there the opportunity of another. the world is big enough. [i write as the stream of the nile bears me between the immense spaces of beautiful, fertile, unpopulated country that lie north of the albert lake.] there is plenty of room for all. why cannot we settle it fairly?

it must be noted that the question of asiatic immigration presents itself to the imperial point of view in several quite distinct forms. there are, first of all, colonies which stand on the basis of a white proletariat, and whose inhabitants, rich and poor, employers and 54 employed, are all europeans. the right of such colonies to forbid the entry of large numbers of asiatics, and to preserve themselves from the racial chaos and economic disturbance inseparable from such immigration, cannot be denied, although its exercise ought no doubt to be governed by various prudential and other considerations. but these colonies differ markedly from those where the mass of the population is not white, but black. again, there are colonies which possess responsible government, and where the number of the white middle-class inhabitants very largely exceeds the asiatic community. it is evident that these stand in a wholly different position from that of places like the tropical protectorates of east and west africa.

indeed, it may be contended that the very fact that the native of british india will undoubtedly, wisely or unwisely, rightly or wrongly, be refused access in any large numbers to several south african and all australian colonies by their respective governments, makes it all the more desirable that the imperial government should afford in the tropical protectorates outlet and scope to the enterprise and colonizing capacity of hindustan. 55 and, as i have written, these countries are big enough for all. there is no reason why those highland areas which promise the white man a home and a career, and where alone he can live in comfort, should not, as a matter of practical administration, be in the main reserved for him. nor, on the other hand, why the asiatic, if only he does not teach the african natives evil ways—a contingency which must not be forgotten—should not be encouraged to trade and settle as he will in the enormous regions of tropical fertility to which he is naturally adapted. somewhere in this direction—i do not wish to dogmatize—the immediate course of sound policy would seem to lie, and, guided by the lights of science and tolerance, we may easily find it.

but the course of these reflections has carried me a good deal farther than the politics of nairobi would seem to justify; and i hasten to return to the question with which i started: "can the highlands of east africa be made 'a white man's country'?" let us examine this by a fresh process. as one rides or marches through the valleys and across the wide plateaux of these uplands, braced by their delicious air, listening to the music of their streams, and 56 feasting the eye upon their natural wealth and beauty, a sense of bewilderment overcomes the mind. how is it they have never become the home of some superior race, prosperous, healthy, and free? why is it that, now a railway has opened the door and so much has been published about them, there has not been one furious river of immigration from the cramped and insanitary jungle-slums of europe? why, most of all, are those who have come—the pioneers, the men of energy and adventure, of large ambitions and strong hands—why are they in so many cases only just keeping their heads above water? why should complaint and discontent and positive discouragement be so general among this limited class?

i have always experienced a feeling of devout thankfulness never to have possessed a square yard of that perverse commodity called "land." but i will confess that, travelling in the east african highlands for the first time in my life, i have learned what the sensation of land-hunger is like. we may repress, but we cannot escape, the desire to peg out one of these fair and wide estates, with all the rewards they offer to industry and inventiveness in the open air. yet all around are men possessing thousands 57 of fertile acres, with mountains and rivers and shady trees, acquired for little or nothing, all struggling, all fretful, nervous, high-strung, many disappointed, some despairing, some smashed.

what are the true lineaments concealed behind the veil of boundless promise in which this land is shrouded? are they not stamped with mockery? is not the eye that regards you fierce as well as bright? "when i first saw this country," said a colonist to me, "i fell in love with it. i had seen all the best of australia. i had prospered in new zealand. i knew south africa. i thought at last i had struck 'god's own country.' i wrote letters to all my friends urging them to come. i wrote a series of articles in the newspapers praising the splendours of its scenery and the excellence of its climate. before the last of the articles appeared my capital was nearly expended, my fences had been trampled down by troops of zebra, my imported stock had perished, my title-deeds were still blocked in the land office, and i myself had nearly died of a malignant fever. since then i have left others to extol the glories of east africa." 58

these second thoughts err, no doubt, as much on the side of extravagant depression as the first impression was over-sanguine. but that there is a rude reverse to the east african medal is a fact which cannot be disputed, and which ought not, in the interests either of the immigrant or of the country to be concealed. it is still quite unproved that a european can make even the highlands of east africa his permanent home—that is to say, that he can live there without sensible degeneration for fifteen or twenty years at a stretch without ever returning to the temperate zones; still less that he can breed and rear families through several generations. the exhilaration of the air must not lead people to forget that an altitude of from five to eight thousand feet above the sea-level is an unusual condition, producing results, not yet ascertained, upon the nervous system, the brain, and the heart. its coolness can never remove the fact that we are upon the equator. although the skies look so familiar and kindly with their white fleecy clouds and passing showers, the direct ray of the sun—almost vertical at all seasons of the year—strikes down on man and beast alike, and woe to the white man whom he finds 59 uncovered! although sheep and oxen multiply so rapidly, although crossing them with imported stock produces in each generation astonishing improvements in quality, they are subject to many perils little understood and often fatal. and if the landscape recalls to the pensive traveller the peaceful beauties of gentler climes at home, let him remember that it nurses with blithe fecundity poisonous reptiles, and pest-spreading insects, and terrible beasts of prey.

there is no reason, however, for doubting that modern science possesses, or will discover, the means of eradicating or mitigating many of these evils. as the development of the country and the scientific investigation of tropical agriculture and tropical disease proceed, the difficulties which beset the early settler will gradually be removed. he will learn how to clothe and house himself; what to plant, what to breed, and what to avoid. the spread of east coast fever, now carried by the ticks from one animal to another, and carried by the infected animals from one district to another, will be arrested, and controlled by a proper system of wire-fencing and quarantine. remedies will be discovered 60 against the various diseases which attack sheep or horses. zebra, rhinoceros, buffalo, and other picturesque and fascinating nuisances will be driven from or exterminated within the settled areas, and confined to the ample reserves of uninhabited land. the slow but steady growth of a white population will create a market for local agricultural produce. the powerfully equipped scientific departments, the veterinary and forestry departments, and the department of agriculture newly established on a considerable scale, will be able to guide and assist the enterprise of the new-comer, and save him from repeating the ill-starred experiments of the pioneer. roads will improve, and railways and mono-rail tramways will extend. step by step life and the means of living will become easier and more secure. still it will not be proved that the pure-bred european can rear his children under the equatorial sun and at an elevation of more than six thousand feet; and till that is proved "the white man's country" will remain a white man's dream.

i have written of europeans and asiatics. what of the african? about four millions 61 of these dark folk are comprised within the districts of the east africa protectorate which are actually or partially administered. many more lie beyond those wide and advancing boundaries. what is to be their part in shaping the future of their country? it is, after all, their africa. what are they going to do for it, and what is it going to do for them? "the natives," says the planter, "evince a great reluctance to work, especially to work regularly." "they must be made to work," say others. "made to work for whom?" we innocently ask. "for us, of course," is the ready answer; "what did you think we meant?" and here we run into another herd of rhinoceros questions—awkward, thick-skinned, and horned, with a short sight, an evil temper, and a tendency to rush blindly up wind upon any alarm. is the native idle? does he not keep himself and pay his taxes? or does he loll at his ease while his three or four wives till the soil, bear the burden, and earn his living? and if idle, has he a right to remain idle—a naked and unconscious philosopher, living "the simple life," without cares or wants,—a gentleman of leisure 62 in a panting world? is that to be the last word? is civilization to say definitely that when the african native has kept himself, or made his women keep him, she has no further claim upon him? the white man shall do the rest. he shall preserve the peace, that the tribes may prosper and multiply. his watchful and foreseeing eye, strained and weary with the effort, shall still make provision against famine; his science, though he himself goes down in the struggle, shall grapple with pestilence and cure disease. far from his home or from his family he shall hew the trees and dig the wells, shall dam the streams and build the roads, with anxious heart and "in the sweat of his brow," according to the curse laid upon the child of many wants, while the child of few wants watches him from the shade and thinks him mad.

and to compare the life and lot of the african aboriginal—secure in his abyss of contented degradation, rich in that he lacks everything and wants nothing—with the long nightmare of worry and privation, of dirt and gloom and squalour, lit only by gleams of torturing knowledge and tantalizing hope, which constitutes 63 the lives of so many poor people in england and scotland, is to feel the ground tremble under foot. "it would never do to have a lot of 'mean whites' in this country," i heard one day a gentleman say. "it would destroy the respect of the native for the white man, if he saw what miserable people we have got at home." so here, at any rate, the boot is on the other leg, and civilization is ashamed of her arrangements in the presence of a savage, embarrassed lest he should see what lies behind the gold and purple robe of state, and begin to suspect that the all-powerful white man is a fraud. but this is an irrelevancy!

i am clearly of opinion that no man has a right to be idle, whoever he be or wherever he lives. he is bound to go forward and take an honest share in the general work of the world. and i do not except the african native. to a very much larger extent than is often recognized by some who discuss these questions, the natives are industrious, willing to learn, and capable of being led forward. live for a few weeks, as i have done, in close association with the disciplined soldiers of the king's african rifles, or with the smart sailors of the uganda marine, and it seems 64 wonderful to contrast them with the population from which they have emerged. how strong, how good-natured, how clever they are! how proud their white officers are of them! what pains they take to please the travellers whom they escort; how frankly they are delighted by a word of praise or thanks! just and honourable discipline, careful education, sympathetic comprehension, are all that is needed to bring a very large proportion of the native tribes of east africa to a far higher social level than that at which they now stand. and why should men only be taught to be soldiers? is war always to have the best of everything? cannot peaceful industry be made as attractive, be as highly organized, as carefully studied as the combined use of deadly weapons? "why," as ruskin asks, "cannot men take pride in building villages instead of only carrying them?"

i wonder why my pen slips off into these labyrinths, when all i set out to do was to give some general idea of politics at nairobi? but in truth the problems of east africa are the problems of the world. we see the social, racial, and economic stresses which 65 rack modern society already at work here, but in miniature; and if we choose to study the model when the whole engine is at hand, it is because on the smaller scale we can see more clearly, and because in east africa and uganda the future is still uncompromised. the british government has it in its hands to shape the development and destiny of these new countries and their varied peoples with an authority and from an elevation far superior to that with which cabinets can cope with the giant tangles at home. and the fact stirs the mind. but by this time the reader will have had as much of east african politics as i had when, after three days of deputations and disputations, the train steamed out of nairobi to take us to the great lake and beyond.