of gentlemen’s wigs, and a few additional observations thereon—to make a strong and durable wig with woven hair throughout—mounting a wig—the metallic spring again—various kinds of net used—caution against using too much hair—sewing on the weft—the crown made with weft—the parting formed with weft—pressing the work—of elastic springs—the wig completed.
t is now my intention to treat of gentlemen’s wigs, and i think that, so far as general remarks are concerned, there is but little to add to my former observations on the subject. the approved method to be adopted for measuring the head, together with other necessary instructions, have been already given, to which the reader is referred. like every thing else, gentlemen’s wigs admit of considerable variation, and can be made to suit the pockets of all classes. some customers are strictly economical; they do not so much care for appearances, their desire being to have a wig that shall be strong, durable, and low in price. such men will wear a wig until it “goes foxy” (to use a trade phrase which fully explains my meaning). some people, as they advance in years, have an aversion to putting on new things; preferring that to which they have become accustomed before a fresh, and, it may be, more elaborate article. 182this applies to clothing, boots and shoes, hats, &c., and why not to wigs? therefore, in executing an order for a person who habitually wears one, notice every detail associated with that which he is wearing, and deviate as little as possible therefrom. younger men, who lose their hair early in life, require to be much more particular; they wish to defy the scrutinizing glances of friends and acquaintances, and, as a consequence, seek to obtain that which is lighter, and of a more natural appearance. price, it may be, is of the last consideration, for nothing, perhaps, would cause them greater uneasiness than to be told by some indiscreet associate, “why, jack, you’ve got a wig on.” men sometimes show their ignorance by making such foolish remarks; and i allude to it here to impress upon the reader how important it is to acquire taste, good judgment, and proficiency in business. i said just now that “gentlemen’s wigs admit of considerable variation,” and it is my intention to describe the manufacture of two kinds, namely, those which are intended to be worn for an indefinite period, and others that have to be renewed more frequently. that is to say, the buyer of a wig at thirty-five shillings would desire it to last for a longer time than he who purchases a more artistically made article at treble the price, and renews it every year.
i propose making a wig (in the first instance) of a strong and durable character, and with woven hair throughout. this description, either with 183or without patent crowns, or patent partings and crowns (of which more hereafter), i prefer making with weft, because i think them less likely to shrink than if they were knotted. knotted work for lightness, weft for durability; at least, this is my opinion of the matter. it will be for the workman to decide which he considers preferable, and, as i shall give instructions how to proceed in either case, an opportunity will thus be afforded him to judge of the correctness of my assertion.
take a clean mounting-block, and having your measurements properly written out according to previous instructions, pencil the outline of the mount thereon. be very particular in marking details, because the galloon should follow every line. having done this accurately, commence at the back of the block (in the neck) by driving a 184point or two through the galloon on the left side of the central line. keep the galloon fairly tight with the left hand, following the pencilled markings, and hammer in points wherever it is necessary to do so. i will now assume that you have carefully made the proper curves at the ear and temple, and that you have reached the cut line on the block which is in the centre of the forehead. you have now to continue the galloon along the pencil markings on the opposite side of the block until the place from which you started is reached: drive in another point or two and cut off the galloon, leaving at least half an inch to spare upon the block. in foregoing instructions these “free ends” have also been alluded to; you are to pinch them well together, and, with a needle and silk, sew them through and through. the mount is now ready for “basting,” but where you should begin is optional, and depends in a great measure on the style of mount. in this instance, i should begin in front; next the temples; then, round about the ears. the engravings which accompany these descriptions very clearly indicate details.[24] having completed this part of the work, you will find that in various places the galloon is puckered; these you must pinch together, sew through and through, lay them down quite flat, and a stitch or two will hold them in their places.
the first important step in making a wig is now accomplished. to be quite sure, go over your measurements again (i presume that you have done so before), and satisfy yourself of their exactness. now, take the galloon and put a portion of it across the top from front to back; drive points through as before; cut off and sew neatly. a similar piece is to extend from ear to ear across the crown, which must be treated in a similar way. having done this, take the galloon again, and, passing it under these cross-pieces, bring the ends to the front, pull it moderately tight, and sew down upon the galloon. this piece forms, as it were, a fillet round the head. make a circle with the galloon, about two and a-half inches from the outer edges, to form the crown; in this instance i intend it to be made of weft, which will presently demand no little cleverness on the part of the wig-maker. this circle will 186have many puckers, and they are to be sewn down as before.
i have already alluded to metallic springs, and given an illustration of one.[25] the instructions then presented to the reader, must be borne in mind when an order is given for a wig, and also while the mount is progressing. indeed, the spring ought to be placed in its appointed position when the mount is designed upon the block, and it should not reach (in any instance) to the lower edges of the galloon. the spring is to be covered as before, put on the block, and sewn in its place. with regard to other springs, which are used to keep the wig in shape, and thereby add to the comfort of the wearer, the engravings, together with previous instructions, will no doubt be found sufficient.
with the foregoing particulars, and the illustrations which accompany them, the learner can proceed to mount and make a wig. there is, in this class of work, much scope for ingenuity and thoughtfulness, and a well-made wig is not only creditable to the maker, but displays an amount of skilfulness which, to many, is surprising.
there are various descriptions of net used in wig-making to meet all requirements. for patterns and prices i cannot do better than refer the reader to either of messrs. r. hovenden & sons’ warehouses. to suit my own purposes, i find it sufficient to divide the net into two classes, viz., 187silk and cotton, of which, i need scarcely add, the latter is the cheapest; but for strength and durability, as well as neatness, the former is much to be preferred. the form and size of the mesh is not of any particular moment if woven hair has to be used; but when the hair is knotted the case is different, and, as the learner becomes proficient in his business, he will understand why some particularity in the choice of net should be exhibited by the worker, more especially when he takes delight in the excellence of his productions. i have said before that in manufacturing wigs, the “set” of the hair is all-important, and in knotting, the formation of the mesh is, doubtless, considered to have a great deal to do with it.
the mount being divided into sections by means of the galloon which passes from front to back, side to side, etc., enables the maker to sew on the net in parts, in preference to one entire whole. it is better to do this portion of the work in sections, not only because it is economical, but it is much more convenient. commence (say) at the neck, by sewing the net to the innermost edge of the galloon, and you may arrange to cover one or both of the back divisions. having sewn it along the edge securely, draw the net fairly tight, and stitch it to the nearest edge of the galloon which divides the front from the back. cut off, but leave a sufficient margin to “herring-bone” afterwards. the front part of the wig may be covered in a 188similar manner. all edges of the galloon must be sewn to the net. i will now assume that the mount is covered except the points near the ears, the front peak, and, it may be, the nape of the neck. the angular, or odd pieces of net, will do exceedingly well for these. all being sewn to every available spot, the net tight and firm (not “baggy”—by all means guard against that), and free edges neatly “herring-boned” to the galloon, the mount is complete.
of course, the hair selected for the top of the head, about the front and crown should be longer than it is at the sides and in the neck, therefore, two or three lengths of hair must be employed. a calculation ought to be made first, and the appearance, age of wearer, and so forth taken into consideration. as a rule, the makers of wigs put too much hair in their manufactures. the lighter they are, the better. still, sufficient hair must be used to cover them, and much depends upon the fineness of the weft. weaving some thirty yards of weft is, no doubt, considered a task by many, but unless it is fine throughout, more hair than necessary is likely to be consumed. an ordinary weaver should do at least a yard of wig-weft an hour, but professed weavers would do much more than that. the lengths of hair, then, having been decided upon, and their apportionment made, the weft should be completed without delay, before this monotonous part of the job becomes tedious. i said just now that too much hair is generally used, for 189i have known instances where three ounces or more of crop have been employed, in place of half, or two-thirds of that quantity, which would have suited the job much better. here, then, is another cause of the “wiggy” appearance of which some people complain. besides a general improvement in the article which adds considerably to the ease and comfort of the wearer, something is saved in the cost of material, which must not be lost sight of. true, the weight of hair depends in a great measure upon its length, but for ordinary purposes it should not be allowed to exceed two ounces, if possible.
the weft being completed, begin sewing on behind the ears and in the neck; for this use the shortest hair. the first row, or, i might say, rows, of weft should, as a matter of course, be very carefully put on; indeed, all the margins or edges ought to receive the greatest attention, for if the hair be raised up and the work critically examined, a show of galloon would stamp it as bad at the very outset. two, if not three rows of weft can be first sewn on before filling in the angles, and when that is attempted, both sides must be done uniformly. the angles (or points) behind the ears having been thus treated, the weft can be continued in lines until the neck part is all filled in. the sides should now be attended to, and, if the hair be sufficiently long, the front peak also. commence sewing on the weft close to that which is already on the block, and this will be somewhere 190behind the ear. stitch close to the edge of the galloon, and, as before, make two or three rows; then fill in the two sides. bear in mind what i have previously said, which in this connection is worth repeating. it is this—remember, as a rule, that in gentlemen’s wig-making, the hair should always be dressed to the face, but this effect cannot be produced without careful attention to the rows of weft, or “knots.” therefore, arrange the weft in such a way as to ensure this desirable result, and the pressing iron will do the rest. i now assume that all the angular places have been filled up, and that hair covers the wig up to the galloon which goes around the head like a band or fillet. you now require to use the second length of hair, and, probably it will do for both back and front; if so, go on sewing several rows of weft round and round at equal distances from each other. not too close, otherwise the wig is likely to be heavy, and not very wide apart, or else the work will be flimsy and unsubstantial. should you decide upon using longer hair for the top and sides than you do at the back, then the work must be done accordingly, by sewing half-way—backwards and forwards. the other half will have to be filled up in like manner; but, when the wig is taken off the block, the rows should appear as though they were sewn on in the way just before mentioned. i will now imagine that you are approaching the part marked out for the crown, and if you make any further difference in the 191lengths of hair to be employed, here you may begin with the longest, and continue up to the circle reserved for the crown. the hair used in this place may be of one length only, and can be sewn round and round until the lower margin of the crown galloon is covered with one or two rows of weft.
i previously stated that “i propose making a wig (in the first instance) of a strong and durable character, and with woven hair throughout;” but i have another object in view besides strength and durability. in all that i have written about “board-work,” i have addressed myself chiefly to apprentices and improvers, and in this particular instance i wished the young wig-maker to possess himself of a good specimen of his abilities. indeed, 192i am now about setting a task which will try his ingenuity, and if successful in doing it well, he may justly feel proud of his work. it is to make a crown according to the illustration given on the preceding page.
a reference to fig. 39 shows a wig mount, with the circular space left for the crown, which is, moreover, divided into four parts. in each of these divisions the weft (carefully and finely made for the purpose) is to be sewn according to the diagram fig. 40. it will be seen from the covered half that each row of hair overlaps the other, and the greatest nicety should be exercised in working the exact centre, so as to conceal, if possible, every sign of weft. this is to be done by adroit workmanship, assisted by a warm iron and careful pressing.
to make a parting with the weft take a needleful of white cotton, mark the place for the parting, and the width it is intended to be. simply make two straight lines from the crown to the temple, about an inch apart, and on the side the parting is worn. having done this, remember that when sewing on the weft, it is to be turned back for an inch, and then returned again, so as to follow on in its proper course; these turnings and re-turnings being necessary (1) to bring the rows closer together, and (2) to make a division without showing the net foundation. of course, a clear and distinct parting must not be attempted in this case, but just such a division as a hairdresser 193should be able to make on a gentleman’s head with a brush only.
all being so far completed, the next thing to do is to press the work, but not the hair, otherwise the curl will disappear. take a smooth, warm, pressing iron and begin, say, upon the left side, nearest the face. this will be at one of the angles, or points. separate three or four rows of weft at a time, and of a convenient width, so as to hold the slip of hair firmly between the two fore-fingers of the left hand. damp the weft only, with a small sponge, or the finger, at the same time inclining the curled ends to the face; press, lay the curl flat and leave it undisturbed. in like manner the whole of the work has to be treated, and when finishing off at the crown, see that its peculiar circular turn or inclination is well preserved. having allowed a little time to elapse for all to get cold and “set,” cut the basting stitches, and carefully take the wig off the block. pull out all loose threads, examine your work, and see that everything is as it ought to be.
i have said that the block for this kind of work should exceed the circumference of the head by half an inch or more; this allowance is necessary, as it insures an easy fit, and provides to a certain extent for shrinking. besides, should it prove to be a fault, it is one easily got over by means of an elastic spring, or springs. these springs are made of different 194lengths; but for a gentleman’s wig, one would probably be two-and-a-half inches long, and it has to go at the back of the neck. take the wig, turn the back part inside out, so as to get at the lower galloon easily. cut a piece of galloon the same width, and full an inch longer than the spring. mark the centre, and sew neatly (both edges) to the lower galloon, so as to form a casing for the spring. the stitching should not be continued to the ends. now take a needle with doubled silk and fix it to one end of the spring; put the head of the needle foremost, and pass it through as though it were a bodkin. draw the spring into position, and firmly sow first one end to the wig, and (having previously attached a second needle and silk to the other end) then the other. the degree of tightness required must be your guide, both as to the length of spring and amount of elasticity. turn in the free ends of the galloon and sew neatly as before, until all is perfectly covered. should a second spring be required, it is to be placed above, in exactly the same way, upon the fillet or band which goes around the head.
the wig is again to be put on the block, the hair cut with a razor, by a kind of gliding motion (to taper off the ends as much as possible), brushed and dressed. it is now ready for the wearer, and any other alterations in regard to trimming, etc., can be done upon the head, so as to adapt it to the features.
