only in rare instances does poultry require doctoring, yet it is well to be prepared with sufficient knowledge to recognise the symptoms of approaching trouble. a few small coops should be kept in some dry, sheltered outhouse, to be used as quarantine quarters. empty dry-goods boxes turned on their sides, with half the front boarded across and a door of wire netting to close the other half, make good coops for individual patients. they should be covered all around, sides and top and bottom, with roofing-paper, to insure freedom from draft. the boxes may be any size, but i like them about eighteen inches wide and high, and about two and a half feet long. to avoid dampness, and for convenience in attending to the birds, it is well to elevate them on legs or stand them on a shelf or bench. before using, or whenever they are vacated, they should be disinfected and the inside thoroughly painted with whitewash. the enamelled cups without handles can be attached to the side of the coop by wire loops.
the most dreaded visitor on a poultry-farm is roup, for it not only affects the bird during the period of immediate illness, but it leaves behind it all sorts of constitutional weaknesses to the bird’s progeny. 88 every poultry-keeper should cultivate the habit of scrutinising his or her flock at feed-times. a suspicious-looking bird should be caught and removed to quarantine quarters immediately. the symptoms of cold, influenza, canker, diphtheria and roup are in the earlier stages almost identical—watery eyes, sneezing, discharge from the nostrils or the nostrils being stuffed up (the nostrils are the two small holes at the base of the bill). when the bird is noticed to have any one of these symptoms, open the bill and look down the throat. should there be no signs of trouble, you may be sure that there is nothing but an ordinary cold to fight, which a few days in hospital will cure.
give light and easily digested food, such as stale bread soaked in scalded milk and squeezed almost dry or corn-meal which has been well steamed. put ten drops of spirits of camphor on a lump of sugar, then dissolve the sugar in a half-pint of water and use in the drinking-cup. if, however, examination reveals yellow spots on the mouth or in the throat, or a thick slimy discharge from the eyes and nostrils, it is a serious case of catarrh or roupy cold, which may, if neglected, develop into malignant roup. throughout the entire range of cold and roupy diseases there is no special odour until malignant roup is positively developed. then there is a most offensive and unmistakable odour.
treat all diseases which overstep a common cold as roup, and you will err on the side of safety. in the 89 last and most malignant stages of roup, the face and eyes or head are very likely to be severely swollen, and if things have progressed to such a condition, before the bird has been removed from the flock, it is well to take the precaution of disinfecting the drinking and feeding dishes and generally clean up the poultry-house, and add a disinfectant to the drinking-water for a few days. permanganate of potassium is what i generally use, because it is cheap and most effective as a germ-killer. dissolve one teaspoonful in a quart of warm water, and you will have such a strong solution that for all ordinary uses can be diluted again at the rate of one teaspoonful to five of water.
treatment for roup: first wash off any discharge which may have accumulated around the eyes and bill with warm water and permanganate; then fill an atomiser with diluted permanganate solution and thoroughly spray the throat and nostrils. repeat night and morning, as long as there seems any necessity. keep the light diet as recommended for common cold.
indigestion and intermediate stages up to acute gastritis and liver complaint, all spring from the same causes, and will succumb to the same remedies, so we will consider them connectedly. they are caused by indiscreet or excessive feeding; mash which has been allowed to become sour; an excess of bread, potatoes or fat in table-scraps fed to the birds; lack of corn, vegetables or sharp grit; condition powders, egg-foods, and such condiments, if given frequently, will affect the digestive organs and bring on indigestion. 90 at first the sufferer looks mopey and stupid; the comb is pale. at this stage a few days in hospital and a dose of magnesia and reformation in diet will work a cure. put about a third of a teaspoonful of sulphate of magnesia in a cup of drinking-water. feed a mash composed of three parts finely-cut clover-hay, which has been thoroughly steamed, and one part each of coarsely-ground corn and oats. if you haven’t clover-hay, use wheat-bran instead; chopped apple, lettuce or any greens should be the mid-day meal. put a small pan of sharp grit into the coop. advance symptoms are watery, yellowish droppings and thirst, and the comb becoming fiery red, which may gradually darken to crimson as the bird’s condition becomes worse. administer a teaspoonful of castor-oil; feed sparingly on mash, which at this stage should consist of boiled rice, scalded bread and milk or cottage-cheese. if the dysentery is very severe, fill up a drinking-vessel with the water in which the rice was boiled. after eight hours of such diet, add twenty-five drops of tincture of nux vomica to half a pint of rice-water. continue with light, nourishing food for about a week.
in the fall fowls are frequently given free range, before the corn and other crops are harvested, and with the result that they gorge themselves with new corn, which is very liable to heat and swell. in the summer people are very likely to cut grass and throw it in to yarded hens, who will eat it greedily, but it invariably causes trouble, being in long lengths. 91 lawn-clippings, which are not over an inch in length, are quite safe and, of course, supply the required green food which they specially crave in hot weather. when the bird is seen to have an unusually large crop and shows signs of distress, catch it and hold by the feet, head downward, then gently work the crop so as to push a little of the contents into the throat and out through the beak. even if only a few grains can be ejected in this way, it will help the strained condition of the crop and ease the bird’s sufferings. administer a dose of castor or sweet oil.
occasionally an obstinate case can’t be helped by simple means, and then surgery has to be resorted to. tie the feet together and the wings close to the body with a broad strip of muslin, place the bird on its side on the table, calling in assistance to hold it still, and with a sharp pocket-knife make a small slit, first in the outer skin, pulling one side slightly outward, then making an insertion in the crop itself. carefully remove the contents. you need not be at all nervous about the operation, which is quite painless. after the crop is emptied, take a moderately fine needle threaded with a fine sewing-silk. take two or three stitches in the crop and cut off the thread, pull the edges of the outer skin together and fasten with two or three stitches. of course, under no circumstances must the crop and the outer skin be fastened together in stitching. keep the bird on very meagre rations for a week or ten days.
the most common ailment of infant chickenhood is 92 bowel trouble, and one should be on the watch for the the first signs, all through the hatching season, as a few hours means much to frail baby life. a chill, dampness, improper food or dirty drinking-water are the usual causes. should any laxity be noticed in the droppings, remove the drinking-water and substitute either milk which has been scalded and allowed to cool or rice-water, according to the symptoms. feed boiled rice at least once a day. if the chicks are in a brooder, set the temperature a little higher than under ordinary circumstances. if they are with a hen, keep her confined to the brood-coop, to insure the chicks being able to nestle to her.
gapes is the second scourge of chick-life. gapes is not truly a disease, but the effect of a parasite worm, which is supposed only to materialise on ground in which poultry-droppings have been deposited for several seasons. a gapeworm is only about five sixteenths of an inch in length and no thicker than a fine thread. once introduced into the bird’s throat it fastens there and sucks the blood of its victim, and, of course, a little chick has not the strength to eject it, no matter how much it may cough or gape. they multiply very quickly. some of the remedies are as follows: dip the end of a small wing feather in turpentine, push it down the bird’s throat, turn two or three times quickly and pull out. the worm may come with it. another is to mix salt and water or steep tobacco in water for ten minutes; pour a tablespoonful down the bird’s throat, keeping the head up, 93 and the two holes at the base of the bill covered with your thumb and forefinger whilst you count five. release and suddenly turn the bird upside down, holding by the feet. it will gasp, splutter and usually eject the worm. to exterminate the pests, have the ground, on which the birds have been cooped and yarded, sprinkled with quicklime (keeping the birds safely cooped, so that they cannot get into or eat the lime). let it lie overnight and then plough under. if such treatment is impossible, remove all the young stock to some other part of the farm. mature birds have the strength to eject the worms.
