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A Walk in Picardy

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picture any village you know. in such a village as that the trench begins. that is to say, there are duck-boards along a ditch, and the ditch runs into a trench. only the village is no longer there. it was like some village you know, though perhaps a little merrier, because it was further south and nearer the sun; but it is all gone now. and the trench runs out of the ruins, and is called windmill avenue. there must have been a windmill standing there once.

when you come from the ditch to the trench you leave the weeds and soil and trunks of willows and see the bare chalk. at the top of those two white walls is a foot or so of brown clay. the brown clay grows deeper as you come to the hills, until the chalk has disappeared altogether. our alliance with france is new in the history of man, but it is an old, old union in the history of the hills. white chalk with brown clay on top has dipped and gone under the sea; and the hills of sussex and kent are one with the hills of picardy.

and so you may pass through the chalk that lies in that desolate lane with memories of more silent and happier hills; it all depends on what the chalk means to you: you may be unfamiliar with it and in that case you will not notice it; or you may have been born among those thyme-scented hills and yet have no errant fancies, so that you will not think of the hills that watched you as a child, but only keep your mind on the business in hand; that is probably best.

you come after a while to other trenches: notice boards guide you, and you keep to windmill avenue. you go by pear lane, cherry lane, and plum lane. pear trees, cherry trees and plum trees must have grown there. you are passing through either wild lanes banked with briar, over which these various trees peered one by one and showered their blossoms down at the end of spring, and girls would have gathered the fruit when it ripened, with the help of tall young men; or else you are passing through an old walled garden, and the pear and the cherry and plum were growing against the wall, looking southwards all through the summer. there is no way whatever of telling which it was; it is all one in war; whatever was there is gone; there remain to-day, and survive, the names of those three trees only. we come next to apple lane. you must not think that an apple tree ever grew there, for we trace here the hand of the wit, who by naming plum lane’s neighbour “apple lane” merely commemorates the inseparable connection that plum has with apple forever in the minds of all who go to modern war. for by mixing apple with plum the manufacturer sees the opportunity of concealing more turnip in the jam, as it were, at the junction of the two forces, than he might be able to do without this unholy alliance.

we come presently to the dens of those who trouble us (but only for our own good), the dugouts of the trench mortar batteries. it is noisy when they push up close to the front line and play for half an hour or so with their rivals: the enemy sends stuff back, our artillery join in; it is as though, while you were playing a game of croquet, giants hundreds of feet high, some of them friendly, some unfriendly, carnivorous and hungry, came and played football on your croquet lawn.

we go on past battalion headquarters, and past the dugouts and shelters of various people having business with history, past stores of bombs and the many other ingredients with which history is made, past men coming down who are very hard to pass, for the width of two men and two packs is the width of a communication trench and sometimes an inch over; past two men carrying a flying pig slung on a pole between them; by many turnings; and windmill avenue brings you at last to company headquarters in a dugout that hindenburg made with his german thoroughness.

and there, after a while, descends the tok emma man, the officer commanding a trench mortar battery, and is given perchance a whiskey and water, and sits on the best empty box that we have to offer, and lights one of our cigarettes.

“there’s going to be a bit of a strafe at 5.30,” he says.

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