indians met with, and the mouth of the great river reached.
heroes are not perfect. we deem it necessary to make this observation, because many modern biographers seem to imagine that their heroes are perfect, and even attempt to prove them to be so. we therefore feel it necessary to disclaim any such imagination or intention in regard to our hero. alexander mackenzie was indeed a hero, and a very fine specimen of a man—mentally as well as physically—if we are to credit the report of those who knew him best; but he was not perfect.
for instance, he evidently acted sometimes on the fallacious notion that whatever gave pleasure to himself must necessarily give pleasure to all other men. acting on this idea in the present instance, he sought to delight the hearts of these slave and dog-rib indians by presenting them with pipes and tobacco, and inducing them to smoke. to the credit of humanity be it recorded that they received the gift with marked dislike, although they were too polite to absolutely refuse it. slaves though one section of them were in name, they were not slaves to tobacco; and the other section being dog-ribs, had, we presume, too little of adam’s rib in them to find pleasure in smoke. of course, they knew something about smoke, but it was chiefly as a nuisance, which was very troublesome to the eyes, and which usually issued from the tops of their wigwams—not from human lips. it must also be recorded that those estimable savages entertained a strong antipathy to grog when it was produced. their hearts were reached, however, and their souls gladdened, when knives, beads, awls, firesteels, flints, and hatchets were presented to them; and we can fancy how animated and earnest would be their converse over the wigwam fires, for weeks and months, if not for years, afterwards, when they brought out, for the thousandth time, and feasted their wondering eyes on, those delightfully useful implements, which had been left by the mysterious white beings who had dropped upon them so suddenly, as if from the skies, and whom they felt half inclined at first to reverence as gods.
having won their confidence and esteem, mackenzie proceeded to question them as to that portion of the great river which yet lay before him. their account was an exaggerated echo of that previously obtained from the indians of great slave lake. being, therefore, of little or no value, our hero was obliged to advance, and solve the question for himself. as before, the effect of the indian stories on the indians of his party was very marked and discouraging. with great difficulty mackenzie overcame their objections to proceed, and even succeeded in persuading one of the dog-rib indians to accompany him by the potent influence of a small kettle, an axe, a knife, and a few other gifts. this man was a stout young fellow, in a very dirty deerskin coat and leggings, with a double blue line tattooed on his cheeks from the ears to the nose, on the bridge of which it met in a blue spot. hence lawrence, following the natural bent of his mind, which he had already displayed in naming coppernose, immediately addressed this new recruit as bluenose.
these poor savages, although exemplary in the matters of grog and tobacco, were, we are constrained to admit, a very filthy set of creatures; very poor also, because utterly destitute of such wealth as the fur-traders had carried to many of the less remote tribes of indians. nevertheless they possessed a considerable number of implements of their own manufacture, some of wood and others of bone, etcetera, which proved them to be possessed of much ingenuity and taste. the description of their weapons reminds one of those remains of prehistoric man which we find treasured in our museums, for they had arrows barbed with horn, flint, iron, and copper, spears shod with bone, daggers of horn and bone, and axes made of brown or grey stone. the latter were from six to eight inches long and two thick, having the inside flat and the outside round, and tapering to an edge, and were fastened by the middle to wooden handles with a cord of raw skin. they kindled fires by striking together a piece of white or yellow pyrites and a flint stone over a piece of touch-wood, and boiled water in water-tight baskets, by putting a succession of red-hot stones into them.
from these indians the explorers learned that they had passed, on their voyage down the river, large bodies of indians who inhabit the mountains.
“he’ll never make up his mind to go,” observed reuben, as, when about to set forth again, he looked at the pale countenance of the dog-rib who had agreed to join the party.
mackenzie had already had a severe argument with him in order to induce him to fulfil his engagement, and had left him under the impression that he had been successful; but when the poor man had said farewell to the tribe, and was on the point of entering the canoe, his courage failed, and he drew back. seeing this, lawrence suddenly seized him by the nape of the neck, and exclaiming, “come, look sharp, bluenose, get in with ’ee,” gave him a lift that put the matter at rest by sending him sprawling on board. next moment they were off, and shooting down the rapid current of the river.
that night they encamped, amid heavy squalls of wind and rain, at the foot of a rocky hill, on the top of which their new guide said that it blew a gale every day of the year! here the dog-rib became very unhappy, and pretended to be ill, but a strict watch was kept on him so that he could not escape. the country around them was very wild and rugged, and they were informed by their guide that great numbers of bears and small white buffaloes (musk-oxen?) frequented the mountains; also some tribes of indians. here some of the party attempted to ascend a steep hill, but were almost suffocated and fairly driven back by clouds of mosquitoes.
natives were sometimes seen and spoken with, although their first impulse on beholding the voyagers was almost invariably to flee. on one occasion a whole tribe fled save one old man, who came boldly forward and said that he was too old to run or to care much about the short time that yet remained to him of this life. at the same time he pulled out his grey hair by handfuls, and distributed them among the party, imploring their favour for himself and his relations. his mind was quickly relieved by swiftarrow, who seemed to have a special desire, as well as talent, for comforting aged persons of both sexes.
some of these tribes were named the hare indians—hares and fish being their principal means of support. while spending a night with these people a storm of thunder and rain came on, in the midst of which the dog-rib, bluenose, managed to make his escape. as it was important to have a guide, mackenzie compelled a hare indian to fill his place; and, after carrying him off, took great pains to conciliate him—in which efforts he was happily successful.
next day they observed natives on the east shore of the river, and directed their course towards them. their new guide began to call to them in an incomprehensible manner, and said that the natives did not belong to his tribe, but were a very wicked people, who would beat them cruelly, and pull out their hair, and maltreat them in various ways. despite this warning mackenzie advanced, and soon found them to be quite as willing to accept of gifts as other tribes. he found that they understood their guide, and that english chief clearly comprehended one of themselves, although he could not make himself understood. here the joyful information was obtained that in three days more they should meet with the esquimaux, and in ten days at furthest reach the great salt lake—or the sea.
these natives were very superior to those whom the travellers had last met with, and one of them was engaged to take the place of bluenose. this man, who was clad in a shirt made of the skins of the musk-rat, after which he was named, was a very lively individual. he sang the songs not only of his own tribe, but also those of the esquimaux, with whom his tribe had been formerly at war, but were now at peace. he also undertook to perform an esquimaux dance in mackenzie’s canoe, and would infallibly have upset that conveyance had he not been violently restrained. he commented on the tribe to which bluenose belonged with great contempt, calling them by the strong names of cowards and liars.
during these brief visits to the natives our discoverer was not only troubled by the thievish propensities of the natives, but had to guard against the same tendencies in his own men, some of whom were much confused as to the true course of rectitude in regard to “mine and thine”; in addition to which he had to contend with a general propensity on the part of his men to quarrel not only with each other, but with the weather, the journey, and the decrees of fate generally. by a judicious mixture, however, of firmness and suavity, severity and kindness, he managed to keep the several parts of his discordant band together; and, in so doing, proved himself an able general for the highest generalship consists in making the most of existing circumstances and materials.
the river here ran through various channels formed by islands, some of which were without a tree, while others were covered with spruce, fir, and other trees. the banks, which were about six feet above the surface of the river, displayed a face of solid ice intermixed with veins of black earth, and as the heat of the sun melted the ice, the trees frequently fell into the river. the variety of channels in the river rendered it difficult to decide which should be followed. muskrat, the new guide, recommended that which ran to the east; but his leader, not feeling sure of his wisdom or knowledge, preferred the middle channel.
here mackenzie put ashore and proceeded to engage in some cabalistic pursuits which utterly confounded muskrat.
“what is he doing?” asked the savage of english chief.
“taking the sun,” replied the interpreter, with immense pomposity.
“what does that mean?” asked the savage.
english chief tried to explain, but failed for this good reason—that he himself was totally ignorant of the subject beyond the phrase, which he had picked up after the manner of a parrot.
it was found that the latitude was 67 degrees 47 minutes north. this was further north than mackenzie had expected to make it, but the difference was owing to the variation of the compass. from this it became evident that the river emptied itself into the polar sea. not satisfied, however, with the apparent certainty of this, our pioneer resolved to have ocular demonstration—to push on to the mouth of the river, even although, by so doing, he should risk not being able to return to fort chipewyan for want of provisions.
but now his men became so much discouraged that they did their utmost to induce him to turn back, and he felt convinced that if they had had it in their power, some of them would have left him to his fate. as columbus did of old, in somewhat similar circumstances, he assured them that he would now advance only a specified number of days—seven, adding that if he did not then reach the sea he would return. indeed the low state of their provisions alone formed a sufficient security for the maintenance of his engagement.
that evening (the 11th july) they pitched their tents near to a spot where there had been three encampments of the esquimaux, and here mackenzie sat up all night to observe the sun, being now in that realm of bright unchanging day, which in winter becomes a region of continuous night.
at half-past twelve he called up reuben guff and his son and swiftarrow, who were the most intelligent members of his party, to view a spectacle which they had never before seen. they thought, on observing the sun so high, that it was the signal to embark, and were about to rouse their comrades, when mackenzie checked them, and it was with difficulty he persuaded them that the sun had not descended nearer to the horizon, and that it was then but a short time past midnight!
it is but justice to reuben and his party to say that they offered no opposition to their leader during the whole voyage. in regard to this, one speech made by reuben will suffice to describe the spirit that animated him.
“it don’t do, lawrence,” said he, “to go for to interfere wi’ them as leads. be they wise or be they foolish it on’y makes matters wus to interfere wi’ leaders, my lad; therefore it’s best always to hold your tongue an’ do yer dooty. what monsieur mackenzie is, it ain’t for the likes of you and me to pretend for to judge. he seems to me an able, brave, and wise man, so my colours is nailed to the mast, d’ye see—as was said by the immortal lord nelson—an’ i’ve made up my mind to follow him to the end, through thick and thin. it’s little right i would have to claim to be a pioneer if i didn’t hold them sentiments.”
“them sentiments,” we need scarcely add, were heartily echoed by his indian friend and his son.
the appearance of deserted native encampments still further confirmed mackenzie in his belief that he had at length reached the land of the esquimaux. round their fireplaces were found scattered pieces of whalebone, and spots were observed where train-oil had been spilt. the deserted huts also corresponded in construction with those which were known to be built elsewhere by the denizens of the far north. several runners of sledges were also found, and the skulls of a large animal, which was conjectured to be the walrus. here the land was covered with short grass and flowers, though the earth was not thawed above four inches from the surface; beneath that all was frozen hard.
the pioneers had now at last reached the entrance of what appeared to be a lake, which was in the neighbourhood of the polar sea, if not that sea itself; but the variety of channels, the strength of currents, the shallowness of the water and quantity of ice with which it was beset, with the ignorance of their guide, rendered it impossible to make any further advance that season. the object of the expedition, however, had been accomplished. the largest northern river of america, estimated at 2000 miles in length, had been traced from its source to its outlet in the polar sea; the nature of the country and its inhabitants had been ascertained; coal and copper ore had been discovered; the region had been wrenched from the realms of terra incognita, and the energetic pioneer fixed the position of his most northerly discoveries in 69 degrees 7 minutes north latitude. another fact which proved that they were within the influence of the sea was the rise and fall of the water, which could be nothing else than the tide.
they caught a fish, also, resembling a herring, which none of the party had ever seen except english chief who declared it to be of a kind that abounds in hudson’s bay, and finally they beheld what settled the question, a shoal of white whales, which their indian guide said was the principal food of the esquimaux.
it was no wonder that the discoverers found the navigation very intricate, because that great river, now named the mackenzie, is known to empty its waters into the polar sea by innumerable mouths which form a delta of about forty miles in width. storms, rain, and fogs, threw additional hindrances in their way. there was, therefore, nothing left for it but to erect a post and take possession of the land in the name of the king.
homeward! after that, was the order of the day. but what a mighty distance off that home was! and, after all, when reached it was but a log-hut or two in a part of the vast wilderness which, regarded from a civilised-land point of view, was itself the very confines of the known world. our space forbids us to follow mackenzie and his men on their arduous and interesting return voyage. suffice it to say that they dragged the canoes by means of lines against the strong current for a large portion of the way; and, after incurring innumerable dangers from natives, rapids, storms, and starvation, they reached the lake of the hills and landed at fort chipewyan on the 12th of september 1789, having been absent for the long period of one hundred and two days.
that our hero was not content to rest upon the laurels thus gathered in the far north, but longed to act the part of pioneer over the rocky mountains into the far west, shall be made plain in our next chapter.
