winter-travelling in canada—departure from lachine—scenery along the road—“incidents” by the way—arrival at tadousac—mr stone’s adventure with indians—clubbing seals.
it was on a bright winter’s day in the month of january 1846 that i was sent for by the governor, and told to hold myself in readiness to start early the following morning with mr stone for tadousac—adding, that probably i should spend the approaching summer at seven islands.
tadousac, be it known, is a station about three hundred miles below montreal, at the mouth of the river saguenay, and seven islands is two hundred miles below tadousac; so that the journey is not a short one. the greater part of the road runs through an uninhabited country, and the travelling is bad.
in preparation for this journey, then, i employed myself during the remainder of the day; and before night all was ready.
next morning i found that our journey was postponed to the following day, so i went into montreal to make a few purchases, and passed the rest of the day in a state of intense thought, endeavouring to find out if anything had been forgotten. nothing, however, recurred to my memory; and going to bed only half undressed, in order to be ready at a moment’s notice, i soon fell into a short disturbed slumber, from which the servant awakened me long before daylight, by announcing that the sleigh was at the door. in ten minutes i was downstairs, where mr stone shortly afterwards joined me; and after seeing our traps safely deposited in the bottom of the sleigh, we jumped in, and slid noiselessly over the quiet street of lachine.
the stars shone brightly as we glided over the crunching snow, and the sleigh-bells tinkled merrily as our horse sped over the deserted road. groups of white cottages and solitary gigantic trees flew past us, looking, in the uncertain light, like large snow-drifts; save where the twinkling of a candle, or the first blue flames of the morning fire, indicated that the industrious habitant had risen to his daily toil. in silence we glided on our way, till the distant lights of montreal awakened us from our reveries, and we met at intervals a solitary pedestrian, or a sleigh-load of laughing, fur-encompassed faces returning from an evening party.
about seven o’clock we arrived at the hotel from which the stage was to start for quebec—but when did stage-coach, or sleigh either, keep to its time? no sign of it was to be seen, and it required no small application of our knuckles and toes at the door to make the lazy waiter turn out to let us in. no misery, save being too late, can equal that of being too soon; at least, so i thought while walking up and down the coffee-room of the hotel, upon the table of which were scattered the remains of last night’s supper, amid a confusion of newspapers and fag-ends of cigars; while the sleepy waiter made unavailing efforts to coax a small spark of fire to contribute some warmth to one or two damp billets of wood.
about an hour after its appointed time, the sleigh drove up to the door, and we hastened to take our places. the stage, however, was full, but the driver informed us that an “extra” (or separate sleigh of smaller dimensions than the stage) had been provided for us; so that we enjoyed the enviable advantage of having it all to ourselves. crack went the whip, and off went the leader with a bound, the wheeler following at a pace between a trot and a gallop, and our “extra” keeping close in the rear. the lamps were still burning as we left the city, although the first streaks of dawn illumined the eastern sky. in fifteen minutes more we had left montreal far behind.
there is something very agreeable in the motion of a sleigh along a good road. the soft muffled sound of the runners gliding over the snow harmonises well with the tinkling bells; and the rapid motion through the frosty air, together with the occasional jolt of going into a hollow or over a hillock, is very exhilarating, and we enjoyed our drive very much for the first hour or so. but, alas! human happiness is seldom of long duration, as we soon discovered; for, just as i was falling into a comfortable doze, bang! went the sleigh into a deep “cahoe,” which most effectually wakened me. now these same “cahoes” are among the disadvantages attending sleigh-travelling in canada. they are nothing more or less than deep hollows or undulations in the road, into which the sleighs unexpectedly plunge, thereby pitching the traveller roughly forward; and upon the horses jerking the vehicles out of them, throwing him backward in a way that is pretty sure to bring his head into closer acquaintance with the back of the sleigh than is quite agreeable, particularly if he be a novice in sleigh-travelling. those which we now encountered were certainly the worst i ever travelled over, rising in succession like the waves of the sea, and making our conveyance plunge sometimes so roughly that i expected it to go to pieces. indeed, i cannot understand how wood and iron could stand the crashes to which we were exposed. in this way we jolted along, sometimes over good, sometimes over bad roads, till about nine o’clock, when we stopped at a neat, comfortable-looking inn, where the driver changed his horses, and the passengers sat down to a hurried breakfast.
the morning turned out beautifully clear and warm, at least in comparison with what it had been; and upon re-entering the sleigh we all looked extremely happy, and disposed to be pleased with everything and everybody. the country through which we now passed was picturesque and varied. hills and valleys, covered with glittering snow and dark pines, followed each other in endless succession; while in every valley, and from every mountain-top, we saw hundreds of hamlets and villages, whose little streets and thoroughfares were crowded with busy habitants, engaged in their various occupations and winter traffic.
the laughing voices of merry little children romping along the roads accorded harmoniously with the lively tinkling of their parents’ sleigh-bells as they set out for the market with the produce of their farms, or, dressed in their whitest blanket capotes and smartest bonnets rouges, accompanied their wives and daughters to a marriage or a festival. the scene was rendered still more pleasing by the extreme clearness of the frosty air and the deep blue of the sky; while the weather was just cold enough to make the rapid motion of our sleighs agreeable and necessary.
in some places the roads were extremely precipitous; and when we arrived at the foot of a large hill we used generally to get out and walk, preferring this to being dragged slowly up by the jaded horses.
during the day our sleighs were upset several times; but mr stone and i, in the “extra,” suffered more in this way than those of the regular stage, as it was much narrower, and, consequently, more liable to tip over. upon upsetting, it unaccountably happened that poor mr stone was always undermost. but he submitted to his fate most stoically; though from the nature of things my elbow invariably thrust him deep into the snow, on which, after being extricated, a splendid profile impression was left, to serve as a warning to other travellers, and to show them that a gentleman had been cast there.
as very little danger, however, attended these accidents, they only afforded subject for mirth at the time, and conversation at the end of the stage—except once, when the sleigh turned over so rapidly, that i was thrown with considerable force against the roof, which, being of a kind of slight framework, covered with painted canvas, offered but small opposition to my flight; my head, consequently, went quite through it, and my unfortunate nose was divested to rather an alarming extent of its cutaneous covering. with this exception, we proceeded safely and merrily along, and about seven o’clock in the evening arrived at the small town of three rivers.
early next morning we resumed our journey, and about four in the afternoon arrived at the famous city of quebec, without having encountered any very interesting adventures by the way.
the first sight we had of quebec was certainly anything but prepossessing. a recent fire in the lower town had completely destroyed a large portion of it; and the first street i passed through was nothing but a gaunt row of blackened chimneys and skeleton houses, which had a very melancholy, ghostlike appearance when contrasted with the white snow. as we advanced, however, to where the fire had been checked, the streets assumed a more agreeable aspect—shops were open here and there, and workmen busily employed in repairing damaged houses and pulling down dangerous ones. upon arriving at the steep street which leads from the lower town to within the walls, the immense strength of the ramparts and fortifications struck me forcibly. the road up which we passed to the gate was very narrow: on one side a steep hill descended to the lower town; and on the other towered the city walls, pierced all over with loopholes, and bristling with cannon. at the head of the road, in an angle of the wall, two silent but grim-looking guns pointed their muzzles directly down the road, so as to command it from one end to the other. all the other parts of the walls that i happened to see were even more strongly fortified than this.
the streets of quebec are very steep, much more so than those of edinburgh; and it requires no small exertion to mount one or two without stopping to breathe at the top. upon the whole, it is anything but a pretty town (at least in winter), the houses being high, and the streets very narrow. the buildings, too, are commonplace; and the monument to wolfe and montcalm is a very insignificant affair. in fact, quebec can boast of little else than the magnificent views it commands from the ramparts, and the impregnable strength of its fortifications. some of the suburban villas, however, are very beautiful; and although i saw them in winter, yet i could form some idea of the enchanting places they must be in summer.
after spending three pleasant days here, we got into our sleigh again, and resumed our journey.
no stages ran below quebec, so that we now travelled in the sleigh of a farmer, who happened to be going down part of the way.
soon after leaving the city, we passed quite close to the famous falls of montmorenci. they are as high, if not higher, than those of niagara, but i thought them rather tame, being nothing but a broad curtain of water falling over an even cliff, and quite devoid of picturesque scenery. a curious cone of ice, formed by the spray, rose nearly half-way up the falls.
the scenery below quebec is much more rugged and mountainous than that above; and as we advanced the marks of civilisation began gradually to disappear—villages became scarcer, and roads worse, till at last we came to the shanties of the wood-cutters, with here and there a solitary farmhouse. still, however, we occasionally met a few sleighs, with the conductors of which our driver seemed to be intimately acquainted. these little interruptions broke, in a great degree, the monotony of the journey; and we always felt happier for an hour after having passed and exchanged with a canadian a cheerful bonjour.
our driver happened to be a very agreeable man, and more intelligent than most canadians of his class; moreover, he had a good voice, and when we came to a level part of the road i requested him to sing me a song—which he did at once, singing with a clear, strong, manly voice the most beautiful french air i ever heard; both the name and air, however, i have now forgotten. he then asked me to sing—which i did without further ceremony, treating him to one of the ancient melodies of scotland; and thus, with solos and duets, we beguiled the tedium of the road, and filled the woods with melody! much to the annoyance of the unmusical american feathered tribes, and to the edification of our horse, who pricked up his ears, and often glanced backwards, apparently in extreme surprise.
towards evening the driver told us that we should soon arrive at baie de st. paul; and in half an hour more our weary horse dragged us slowly to the top of a hill, whence we had a splendid view of the village. in all the miles of country i had passed over, i had seen nothing to equal the exquisite beauty of the vale of baie de st. paul. from the hill on which we stood the whole valley, of many miles in extent, was visible. it was perfectly level, and covered from end to end with thousands of little hamlets, and several churches, with here and there a few small patches of forest. the course of a little rivulet, which meanders through it in summer, was apparent, even though covered with snow. at the mouth of this several schooners and small vessels lay embedded in ice; beyond which rolled the dark, ice-laden waves of the gulf of st. lawrence. the whole valley teemed with human life. hundreds of canadians, in their graceful sleighs and carioles, flew over the numerous roads intersecting the country; and the faint sound of tinkling bells floated gently up the mountain-side, till it reached the elevated position on which we stood. the whole scene was exquisitely calm and peaceful, forming a strange and striking contrast to the country round it. like the happy valley of rasselas, it was surrounded by the most wild and rugged mountains, which rose in endless succession, one behind another, stretching away in the distance till they resembled a faint blue wave on the horizon. in this beautiful place we spent the night, and the following at mal baie. this village was also pretty, but after baie de st. paul i could but little admire it.
next night we slept in a shanty belonging to the timber-cutters on the coast of the gulf, which was truly the most wretched abode, except an indian tent, i ever had the chance (or mischance) to sleep in. it was a small log-hut, with only one room; a low door—to enter which we had to stoop—and a solitary square window, filled with parchment in lieu of glass. the furniture was of the coarsest description, and certainly not too abundant. everything was extremely dirty, and the close air was further adulterated with thick clouds of tobacco smoke, which curled from the pipes of half a dozen wood-choppers. such was the place in which we passed the night; and glad was i when the first blush of day summoned us to resume our travels. we now entered our sleigh for the last time, and after a short drive arrived at the termination of the horse road. here we got out, and rested a short time in a shanty, preparatory to taking to our snow-shoes.
the road now lay through the primeval forest, and fortunately it proved to be pretty well beaten, so we walked lightly along, with our snow-shoes under our arms. in the afternoon we arrived at another shanty, having walked about eighteen miles. here we found a gentleman who superintended the operations of the lumberers, or wood-cutters. he kindly offered to drive us to canard river, a place not far distant from the termination of our journey. i need scarcely say we gladly accepted his offer, and in a short time arrived at the river saguenay.
this river, owing to its immense depth, never freezes over at its mouth; so we crossed it in a boat, and on the evening of the 7th of february we arrived at the post of tadousac.
this establishment belongs to the hudson bay company, and is situated at the bottom of a large and deep bay adjoining the mouth of the river saguenay. unlike the posts of the north, it is merely a group of houses, scattered about in a hollow of the mountains, without any attempt at arrangement, and without a stockade. the post, when viewed from one of the hills in the neighbourhood, is rather picturesque; it is seen embedded in the mountains, and its white-topped houses contrast prettily with the few pines around it. a little to the right rolls the deep, unfathomable saguenay, at the base of precipitous rocks and abrupt mountains, covered in some places with stunted pines, but for the most part bald-fronted. up the river, the view is interrupted by a large rock, nearly round, which juts out into the stream, and is named the “bull.” to the right lies the bay of st. catherine, with a new settlement at its head; and above this flows the majestic st. lawrence, compared to which the broad saguenay is but a thread.
tadousac bay is one of the finest natural harbours in the st. lawrence. being very deep quite close to the shore, it is much frequented by vessels and craft of every description and dimension. ships, schooners, barks, brigs, and bateaux lie calmly at anchor within a stone’s-throw of the bushes on shore; others are seen beating about at the mouth of the harbour, attempting to enter; while numerous pilot boats sail up and down, almost under the windows of the house; and in the offing are hundreds of vessels, whose white sails glimmer on the horizon like the wings of sea-gulls, as they beat up for anchorage, or proceed on their course for england or quebec. the magnificent panorama is closed by the distant hills of the opposite shore, blending with the azure sky. this, however, is the only view, the land being a monotonous repetition of bare granite hills and stunted pines (see note 1).
here, then, for a time, my travels came to a close, and i set about making myself as comfortable in my new quarters as circumstances would permit.
tadousac i found to be similar, in many respects, to the forts in the north. the country around was wild, mountainous, and inhabited only by a few indians and wild animals. there was no society, excepting that of mr stone’s family; the only other civilised being, above the rank of a labourer, being a gentleman who superintended a timber-cutting and log-sawing establishment, a quarter of a mile from the company’s post.
my bourgeois, mr stone, was a very kind man and an entertaining companion. he had left scotland, his native land, when very young, and had ever since been travelling about and dwelling in the wild woods of america. a deep scar on the bridge of his nose showed that he had not passed through these savage countries scathless. the way in which he came by this scar was curious, so i may relate it here.
at one of the solitary forts in the wild regions on the west side of the rocky mountains, where my friend mr stone dwelt, the indians were in the habit of selling horses, of which they had a great many, to the servants of the hudson bay company. they had, however, an uncommonly disagreeable propensity to steal these horses again the moment a convenient opportunity presented itself; and to guard against the gratification of this propensity was one of the many difficulties that the fur-traders had to encounter. upon one occasion a fine horse was sold by an indian to mr stone, the price (probably several yards of cloth and a few pounds of tobacco) paid, and the indian went away. not long after the horse was stolen; but as this was an event that often happened, it was soon forgotten. winter passed away, spring thawed the lakes and rivers, and soon a party of indians arrived with furs and horses to trade. they were of the blackfoot tribe, and a wilder set of fellows one would hardly wish to see. being much in the habit of fighting with the neighbouring tribes, they were quite prepared for battle, and decorated with many of the trophies of war. scalp-locks hung from the skirts of their leather shirts and leggins, eagles’ feathers and beads ornamented their heads, and their faces were painted with stripes of black and red paint.
after conversing with them a short time, they were admitted through the wicket one by one, and their arms taken from them and locked up. this precaution was rendered necessary at these posts, as the indians used to buy spirits, and often quarrelled with each other; but, having no arms, of course they could do themselves little damage. when about a dozen of them had entered, the gate was shut, and mr stone proceeded to trade their furs and examine their horses, when he beheld, to his surprise, the horse that had been stolen from him the summer before; and upon asking to whom it belonged, the same indian who had formerly sold it to him stood forward and said it was his. mr stone (an exceedingly quiet, good-natured man, but, like many men of this stamp, very passionate when roused) no sooner witnessed the fellow’s audacity than he seized a gun from one of his men and shot the horse. the indian instantly sprang upon him, but being a less powerful man than mr stone, and, withal, unaccustomed to use his fists, he was soon overcome, and pommelled out of the fort. not content with this, mr stone followed him down to the indian camp, pommelling him all the way. the instant, however, that the indian found himself surrounded by his own friends, he faced about, and with a dozen warriors attacked mr stone and threw him on the ground, where they kicked and bruised him severely; whilst several boys of the tribe hovered around him with bows and arrows, waiting a favourable opportunity to shoot him. suddenly a savage came forward with a large stone in his hand, and, standing over his fallen enemy, raised it high in the air and dashed it down upon his face. my friend, when telling me the story, said that he had just time, upon seeing the stone in the act of falling, to commend his spirit to god ere he was rendered insensible. the merciful god, to whom he thus looked for help at the eleventh hour, did not desert him. several men belonging to the fort, seeing the turn things took, hastily armed themselves, and hurrying out to the rescue, arrived just at the critical moment when the stone was dashed in his face. though too late to prevent this, they were in time to prevent a repetition of the blow; and after a short scuffle with the indians, without any blood shed, they succeeded in carrying their master up to the fort, where he soon recovered. the deep cut made by the stone on the bridge of his nose left an indelible scar.
besides mr stone, i had another companion—namely, mr jordan, a clerk, who inhabited the same office with me, and slept in the same bedroom, during the whole winter. he was a fine-looking athletic half-breed, who had been partially educated, but had spent much more of his life among indians than among civilised men. he used to be sent about the country to trade with the natives, and consequently led a much more active life than i did. one part of his business, during the early months of spring, was hunting seals. this was an amusing, though, withal, rather a murderous kind of sport. the manner of it was this:—
my friend jordan chose a fine day for his excursion, and, embarking in a boat with six or seven men, sailed a few miles down the st. lawrence, till he came to a low flat point. in a small bay near this he drew up the boat, and then went into the woods with his party, where each man cut a large pole or club. arming themselves with these, they waited until the tide receded and left the point dry. in a short time one or two seals crawled out of the sea to bask upon the shore; soon several more appeared, and ere long a band of more than a hundred lay sunning themselves upon the beach. the ambuscade now prepared to attack the enemy. creeping stealthily down as near as possible without being discovered, they simultaneously rushed upon the astonished animals; and the tragic scene of slaughter, mingled with melodramatic and comic incidents, that ensued, baffles all description. in one place might be seen my friend jordan swinging a huge club round with his powerful arms, and dealing death and destruction at every blow; while in another place a poor weazened-looking scotchman (who had formerly been a tailor! and to whom the work was new) advanced, with cautious trepidation, towards a huge seal, which spluttered and splashed fearfully in its endeavours to reach the sea, and dealt it a blow on the back. he might as well have hit a rock. the slight rap had only the effect of making the animal show its teeth; at which sight the tailor retreated precipitately, and, striking his heel against a rock, fell backwards into a pool of water, where he rolled over and over—impressed, apparently, with the idea that he was attacked by all the seals in the sea. his next essay, however, was more successful, and in a few minutes he killed several, having learned to hit on the head instead of on the back. in less than a quarter of an hour they killed between twenty and thirty seals, which were stowed in the boat and conveyed to the post.
nothing worth mentioning took place at tadousac during my residence there. the winter became severe and stormy, confining us much to the house, and obliging us to lead very humdrum sort of lives. indeed, the only thing that i can recollect as being at all interesting or amusing—except, of coarse, the society of my scientific and agreeable friend, mr stone, and his amiable family—was a huge barrel-organ, which, like the one that i had found at oxford house, played a rich variety of psalm tunes, and a choice selection of scotch reels—the grinding out of which formed the chief solace of my life, until the arrival of an auspicious day when i received sudden orders to prepare for another journey.
note 1. it may be well to say that the above description applied to the country only in the summer and autumn months. it is now, we believe, an important summer resort, and a comparatively populous place.
