freed from that horrible incubus, i had now leisure to look about and enjoy the varied scenes that presented themselves. the place we were lying at was, i suppose, a typical native coast village, a big hill facing the anchorage having a rock-hewn temple upon its sea-front. there was no harbour or shelter of any kind, so that vessels lay all ready for sea in case of bad weather setting in. all cargo was brought off in the crazy "massulah" boats, which have been so often described by visitors to madras, and are the only craft able to stand the rough usage of the surf-beaten beach. the fishermen went out on primitive contrivances of three logs lashed together without any attempt at hollowing out or fashioning bow and stern. kneeling upon the two outer logs in the centre of the crazy thing, the poor wretch would paddle seaward until out of sight, his sole equipment a palm-leaf basket secured just in front of him, and containing his fishing-tackle. neither food nor water could be carried, yet in this miserable condition they would remain out for many hours, at the mercy of every wave that came along, and often being rolled over several times in succession. the catches of fish they made were always pitifully small, it seemed to me, sometimes consisting of only a couple of dozen large prawns, though how they caught them out there was a mystery to me.

our cargo was an assorted one. jaggery, or palm sugar—looking like bags of black mud, and almost as nice to handle,—buffalo horns and hides, cases of castor oil, bags of myrabolums (a kind of dye-nut), and sundry other queer things came off to us in small quantities at a time, and were flung on board in a most haphazard fashion, owing to the constant swell, which made the boats tumble about alongside vivaciously. all the stowage was done by the crew under the direction of jemmy the scrubber, who proved himself as capable a stevedore as he was a seaman. no one went ashore except the skipper while we lay there, and he would gladly have avoided the necessity, if possible, since it usually meant a thorough drenching. on the whole, we were by no means sorry when the news came that we were to leave and proceed down the coast to coconada. as we were always ready to sail, there were none of the usual preliminaries; we just hauled in the fenders, hove the anchor up, and started. here our skipper's local knowledge was of great service. for we hugged the coast closely all the way down, keeping a favourable wind, which brought us into coconada bay in a few hours, while the andromeda, a big liverpool ship that sailed at the same time for the same port, stood off the land, got into bad weather, and did not arrive for twenty-eight days. she had also sustained severe damage to both ship and cargo.

while coconada was evidently a much more important place than bimliapatam, we saw nothing of the town, for we lay a long way off in the centre of a huge bay. we were near enough, though, to hear the various cries of the wild beasts, among which the hideous noise of the hyenas was especially noticeable. our unhappy painter, who had remained in bombay hospital during the whole of our stay there, was again so ill that he had to be landed here. but, getting convalescent, he and a fellow patient went for a stroll one day, and, wandering out of the town, they met a hyena. barber was so scared that he fainted right away, but the other man found sufficient vitality to scramble up a tree. he had not got very high, though, before weakness overcame him, and he fell, breaking his leg. when barber came to there was no trace of the hyena, but he and his fellow were in a pitiable plight. there they would doubtless have stopped, and had their bones picked clean by the morning, but for a party of friendly coolies who came along, and, seeing their condition, fetched a couple of "palkees" and carried them back to hospital again.

here, then, we remained for three weeks, filling the hold with a miscellaneous collection of indian produce, of which cotton, linseed, and myrabolums formed the staple, until the great capacity of our ship for cargo was effectually satisfied, and she was jammed full to the hatch coamings. then all hands, released from their stifling labours below, bent their energies to getting ready for sea. meanwhile, although our crew were certainly a most patient set of men, their discontent at the short-handedness, which ever since leaving home had pressed so hardly upon us all, gathered to a head, culminating in a visit of all hands to the quarter-deck with a request to see the skipper. genial as ever, captain smith appeared, his ruddy face wearing an expression of benign wonderment at the unusual summons. "well, what is it, men?" said he. then stepped forward an elderly yankee, who had been a bo'sun's mate in the american navy, a shrewd, intelligent man with a rich fund of native humour, and a prime favourite fore and aft. "we've taken the libbaty, sir, ov comin' aft t'ask ye ef it's yeur intenshun ter sail 'thout shippin' enny more hands?" was his reply. "well, in the first place, nat," answered the skipper, "there's no hands ter be got here, an' besides, in sech a easy-workin' ship as this is, there's no hardship in bein' a cupple o' hands short." "the good lawd fergive ye, sir!" exclaimed nat; "ef thishyers a heasy-workin' ship, what mout ye reckon a hard-workin' one 'ud be like? why, cap'n, it takes two men to haul thro' the slack ov th' braces, an' it's all a man's work to overhaul the gear of a to'gantsle. 'sides, sir, yew know it takes all hands to shorten her down to the taupsles, 'n what we k'n do with her in a squall—well, i hain't fergot thet plesant evenin' off the cape, ef yew have." at this vigorous reply the old man could only laugh to show his appreciation of the home-thrusts it contained, but with native shrewdness he changed his base, still preserving his cheery good temper. "mind ye, i don't say we ain't short-handed," he said—"very short-handed; but we're gettin' out ov the bay o' bengal 'fore the sou-west monsoon sets in, 'n yew know 's well 's me that it's fine weather 'mos' all the way ter the cape once we cross the line. 'n if we git enny dirt offn the cape i'll keep her under easy sail, 'n let the 'gulhas current sweep her roun', 'n then we'll jest be home in no time. yew leav' it t' me. we hain't been eight months together 'thout knowin' each other, 'n yew all know yew k'n depend on me to do the best i k'n ter make ye comfortable. but i can't get any hands in this god-forsaken place if we only had two left forrard." that speech settled it. if captain smith had been an irritable man, inclined to put on airs of outraged dignity because his crew asked him a perfectly reasonable question, and to rate them like a set of fractious children, there would have been an instant refusal of duty on the part of the men, followed by much suffering and loss on both sides, for the chaps were thoroughly in earnest. but the skipper's frank good-humour and acceptance of the situation disarmed them, and they returned forward with minds made up to see the voyage out as best they could. next day we weighed anchor and sailed for london, the windlass revolving to the time-honoured tune of "good-bye, fare-you-well; hurrah, my boys, we're homeward bound."

just prior to our departure we received on board some two or three hundred fowls and two goats, which, added to about twenty pigs—mostly bred on board, two large dogs, two monkeys, sundry parrots and two cats, made the ship bear no bad resemblance to noah's ark. none of these animals had any settled abiding place; they just roamed about the decks whithersoever they would, except on the sacred precincts of the poop, which were faithfully guarded by one of the dogs, who allowed no intrusion by any of the grunting, clucking, or chattering crowd. but this state of things was a great trial to all concerned. for one of the cardinal necessities of british or american ships is cleanliness, which is secured by copious floods of salt water, and vigorous scrubbing every morning. under present conditions keeping the vessel clean was manifestly impossible, the crowd of animals even invading the men's quarters, as well as every nook into which they could possibly squeeze themselves. there was a great deal of dissatisfaction forward at this state of things, and fowls were continually flying overboard, being chased and smitten by angry men, who found everything under their hands befouled and stinking. still the nuisance was unabated until we were ten days out. just off cape comorin we got our first stiff breeze of the homeward passage, and very soon, in accordance with her invariable custom, the old ship began to take sufficient water over the rail to flood the decks fore and aft. then there was a commotion in the farmyard. the watch, up to their waists in water, splashed about collecting the squawking chickens, and driving the bewildered swine into a temporary shelter, rigged up under the topgallant forecastle. next morning at least four dozen dead fowls were flung overboard, in addition to many that had fled blindly into the sea on the previous day. this loss so disgusted the skipper that he ordered all hands to be fed on poultry until the stock was exhausted. at first this benevolent (?) command gave a good deal of delight, but when the miserable, leathery carcases, boiled in salt water, unclean and unsavory, were brought into the forecastle, there was almost a riot. a deputation waited upon the captain to protest and demand their proper rations of "salt horse." they were received by the skipper with a very ill grace, and the usual senseless remarks about sailors' fastidiousness in the matter of food were freely indulged in by the "old man," who seemed quite out of temper. we got no more coromandel poultry, though, which was a blessing, albeit they were served up to the cabin as usual. being prepared in a civilized fashion, i suppose, the officers found them eatable. but in various ways the flock of fowls diminished rapidly, much to our relief, and gradually the decks began to assume their normal cleanliness. the pigs, numerous as they were, could be kept within bounds forward; in fact, the dogs rarely permitted them to come abaft the foremast. as for the two goats, they grew so mischievous, gnawing the ends of all the ropes, and nibbling at everything except iron, that orders for their execution went forth, and since no one would eat them, their bodies were flung overboard.