if all sea-voyages were like the usual passage to the west indies, except for an occasional nasty spell of weather in the english channel, the sailor's life would be a very easy one. day succeeds day under the same limpid blue sky fringed at the horizon with a few tufts of woolly cumuli. placid as a sheltered lake, every wavelet melting into its fellow like a caress, the sapphire sea greets the gazer every morning like a glad smile of unfathomable love. beautiful beyond description is the tender tropical sea, and hard indeed it is to realize that this same delightsome expanse of inexpressible loveliness can ever become the unappeasable destroyer, before whose wrath even the deep-rooted islands seem to shake.

the nights rival the days. during the absence of the moon the blue-black vault appears like a robe of imperial purple, besprent with innumerable diamonds of a lustre unknown to earth's feeble gems. so brilliant is the radiance of the heavenly host that even the unassisted eye can detect the disc of venus or jupiter, while the twin streams of the galaxy literally glow with diffused light, suggesting unutterable glories in their unthinkable depths. and up from the horizon towards the zenith, with clear yet indefinite outline, as of the uplifted finger of god, rises the mysterious conical flame-shadow of the zodiacal light. under such a sky the sea seems to emulate the starry vault above, for in its darkling depths there is a marvellous display of gleaming coruscations. in the foam churned up by the vessel's bows they sparkle and glitter incessantly, while in her wake, where the liquid furrow still eddies and whirls from the passing of the keel, there are a myriad dancing lights of every size and degree of brilliancy. like a bevy of will-o'-the-wisps they sport and whirl, glow and fade—never still, never alike, yet always lovely.

but when the full-orbed moon in a molten glow of purest silver, before which the eye shrinks almost with pain, traverses the purple concave as a conquering queen escorted by her adoring subjects, the night becomes a sweeter, softer day, in which men may sit at ease reading or working as fancy dictates. they dare not sleep in that white glare, lest with distorted features and sightless eyeballs, they vainly regret their careless disregard of the pale beam's power. and as the stately satellite settles slowly horizonwards, or ascends majestically towards the zenith, how dazzling the mile-wide pathway of shimmering radiance she sheds along the face of the deep! the whalers, with more poetic feeling than one would expect, call it the "moon-glade," as though she must needs spread a savannah of splendour for her solemn progress over the waste of ocean.

here, perhaps, i should pause to disarm criticism, if possible. such thoughts as i have feebly tried to express were undoubtedly mine in those youthful days, in spite of squalid surroundings and brutal upbringings. and if i could fairly reproduce the multitude of fancies which throng my memory as being the daily attendants of my boyish daydreams, i should fear no unfavourable reception of such a book as they would make.

but to our voyage. coming on deck one morning soon after daylight, i was startled to notice that the bright blue of the sea was gone. in its place a turbid leaden flood without a sparkling wavelet extended all around. i asked the doctor what this strange change meant. "gettin' near land, i s'pose!" was his gruff reply. nor did i get any other explanation from the men, for none of them knew that we were in fresh water, which, rushing down to the sea from many mighty rivers, overlaid the heavier salt flood for a great distance from land. we did not sight the lightship demerara until next day at noon, although we were going at fully five knots an hour. behind it the low palm-fringed coast lay like a sullen black cloud-bank just appearing above the horizon, for in truth it was almost level with the sea. thicker and dirtier grew the water, until, as we passed the light-vessel, we seemed to be sailing in a sea of mud. between her and the shore we anchored for the night and to await the coming of the pilot; thus closing our outward passage, which might have been as successfully performed in an open boat, so steadily fine had we found the weather.

what a strange sensation is that of first inhaling the breeze from a foreign shore! i stood on the forecastle that evening, hardly able to realize that we had crossed the atlantic, full of queer feelings as the heavy sweet scent of the tropical forest came floating languidly off from that dim, dark line of land. there was a continual chorus of insects, like a myriad crickets chirping, the sharp, crisp notes curiously undertoned by the deep bass of the sleepy line of surf upon the beach. but this persistent music, by its unvarying monotony, soon became inaudible, or acted as a lullaby to which we all succumbed except the anchor-watch.

shortly after daylight a large canoe came alongside, manned by negroes, bearing a pompous-looking negro pilot in what he, no doubt, took to be a very swell costume of faded serge, surmounted by a huge straw hat. he mounted the side by the man-ropes, with the air of a conqueror. as he stepped over the rail with a ludicrous assumption of importance, he said, patronizingly, "good mawnin', cap'n, hope you'se berry well, sah?" "mornin', pilot, same t' you," curtly answered the old man; and, in almost the same breath, "dy'e think there's water 'nough on the bar frus? we're drawin' fourteen feet aft." "neb' mine 'bout dat, cap'n; dat'll be all right. i'se bettin' big money dis yah packet gwine beat 'nuff watah 'head ob her ter float in er linerbattle ship. gorbress my sole, ef i ebber see sich er front eend on er craf' in my days. wasser name? de ark doan' it? ha! ha! ha!"——and he threw back his head, laughing so capaciously that the broad, glistening range of his teeth illuminated his coal-black visage like a shutter flung suddenly open to the sun. but the old man looked sour. such jeering at his command by a nigger was in some sort a reflection on himself, and, thenceforward, he held no more converse with our sable guide than was necessary for the working of the ship.

we were soon under way, though poor jem and myself got in a disgusting condition of mud by the time the anchor was up. the fo'lk'sle, too, from the fact of the cable running through it, was like a neglected sewer, the blocks of foul-smelling mud dropping continually from the links as they came in through the hawsepipes. all sail was loosed previously, but only the jib was set until the anchor was out of the ground, when, humoured by the helm, she turned kindly off the wind, gathering way from its pressure on her broad stern, while the "mudhook" was hove right up. then everything was set that would draw, the wind being fair and strong; but, in spite of the favourable conditions, our progress against the turbulent ebb of the great river was so slow that we were the best part of the day going the few miles that lay between the roadstead and the moorings.

but at last we reached the group of vessels which lay off the business part of the town. with great skill our pilot tried a "flying moor," letting our anchor go while we were forging ahead at a good rate, then immediately clewing up all sail. by the time our way was exhausted, about ninety fathoms had been paid out on the first anchor. the second was then let go, its cable being veered away as the first one was hove in, until an equal amount was out on each; both were then hove in till the moorings were taut, and the vessel swung almost on a pivot. this is a ticklish evolution to perform successfully in a crowded anchorage; but, in our case, the result was entirely satisfactory, saving much labour.

the sails being furled and decks cleared up, work ceased for the day. the curious appearance of the wide verandahed houses embowered in strange-looking trees, the assortment of vessels of all rigs—from the smart yankee schooner to the stately iron coolie-ship from calcutta—the muddy rushing river, all claimed attention, but for one attraction that outweighed them all. waiting alongside were two or three bumboats well stocked with fruit, soft-tack, eggs, and such curios as a sailor might be supposed to covet. i had seen such fruit before, on the other side of plate-glass windows in the west end of london, or in the avenue at covent garden, but never in such generous profusion as now. one boat especially was laden to the gunwale with giant bunches of crimson bananas, each fruit treble the size of ordinary ones; baskets of golden mangoes, green limes, luscious-looking oranges flecked with green, and clusters of immature cocoa-nuts: the kind that only contain sweet juice and delicate jelly within a soft shell covered by husk as easy to cut as a turnip. people accustomed to regular meals of decent food cannot imagine how the sight of these dainties affected our ill-used stomachs. happily there was little delay in choosing our purveyor, who promptly hoisted great part of his stock on deck for us to choose from. in virtue of being the only person in the fo'lk'sle who could write, i was appointed book-keeper, my remuneration being a fair proportion of the good things without payment. in reply to eager inquiries, the bumboatman declared that he had no rum, saying that he very well understood the unwritten law prohibiting the supply of intoxicants by the bumboats, and assuring the men that if he were detected breaking it, he would forfeit his license as well as all payment for goods he had supplied on credit.

we were a happy company that evening. a plentiful meal after such long abstinence put every one in good spirits, although there was much wishing for the cup that both cheers and inebriates. in spite of this want, joviality was the order of the night. song and dance went merrily round, at which the two darkey boat-boys, hired by the skipper to take him backwards and forwards to the shore, assisted with great glee. their fun was spontaneous and side-splitting, seeming superior to all external influences—a well of continual merriment bubbling up. song, quip, and practical joke followed one another incessantly, with all the thoughtless abandon of happy children, and mirthful enjoyment that might have thawed an anchorite. all the pent-up laughter of the passage burst out that evening, the first really jolly one i had ever spent.

at daylight all hands were busy rigging cargogear, for our lading was long overdue. the discharging-gang of negroes were early on board, awaiting only our preparations to begin their work. they were akin to the boat-boys in their behaviour. poor, even to the most utter raggedness of the sacking most of them were covered with—hunger-bitten, for all the provision brought by the majority was a tiny loaf, and about two ounces of sugar each—they were yet full to the lips with sheer animal delight of living. some, the haughty aristocrats of the party, proudly displayed fragments of salt fish or rusty-looking salt pork, flanked by a green plantain, a coco, or chunk of wooden-looking yam; but though these favoured ones were evidently stuck up, their poorer brethren showed no envy. their pay was the equivalent of one shilling per day, which, as the price of food was high, except for a very few local products, must have been all too little to keep hunger at bay. yet, when they got to work, how they did go at it! they seemed to revel in the labour, although the incessant singing they kept up ought to have taken most of their breath. streaming with sweat, throwing their bodies about in sheer wantonness of exuberant strength as they hoisted the stuff out of the hold, they sometimes grew so excited by the improvisations of the "chantey man," who sat on the corner of the hatch solely employed in leading the singing, that often, while for a minute awaiting the next hoist, they would fling themselves into fantastic contortions, keeping time to the music. there was doubtless great waste of energy; but there was no slackness of work or need of a driver. here is just one specimen of their songs; but no pen could do justice to the vigour, the intonation and the abandon of the delivery thereof.

the rushing, muddy stream literally swarmed with ground-sharks, who sometimes came to the surface with a rush, looking terribly dangerous. yet the negroes took but little heed of them, merely splashing a bit before diving if they had occasion to go down and clear some vessel's moorings. sharks and cat-fish were the only fish to be seen: neither of them available for eating. strange to say, the great heat troubled me very little. perhaps because, having for so long regarded cold as one of the chief miseries of my life, the steady searching warmth by night and day was grateful to my puny body. at any rate, but that the bloodthirsty mosquitoes and sandflies tormented me cruelly, as they did all hands, the tropical climate suited me very well. it may have been the healthy season too, for, as far as i know, there was no illness on board any of the ships. all our crew were in robust health, and putting on flesh daily in consequence of the liberal diet.

i wanted much to go ashore, but dared not ask leave; but, to my astonishment, on sunday afternoon the mate told me to get ready and come ashore with him. glad as i was of the chance to see a little of this strange land, i felt small gratification at the prospect of being his companion; i would rather a thousand times have gone with joe. however, it being hobson's choice as well as dangerous to refuse, i rigged myself up as best i could (a queer figure i made too), got into the boat with my inviter, and away we went. landing at one of the "sterlings," as the wharves are locally named, we strolled up into the main street in silence. it was a wide avenue with quite a river running down the centre, and doubtless on week-days would have been very lively. but at this time it was deserted, except by a few stray dogs and sleeping negroes. we trudged along without a word, till suddenly mr. svensen hauled up at a grog-shop, the bar of which was crowded with sea-farers. pressing through the throng to the bar he called for some drink, and, meeting a couple of his countrymen, entered at once into an animated conversation with them in norwegian. for over an hour i waited impatiently, the air of the place being stifling and the babel of tongues deafening. at last, in desperation, i crept in behind him and attracted his attention. he turned sharply upon me, saying, "vell, 'n vat jou vant?" "please, sir," i humbly replied, "may i go an' have a look round?" "oh, co to hell ef jou lige, i ton'd care. only jou ked bag to der poad pefoar sigs o'clog, or i be tamt ef i tond trown jou coin' off—see!" "thank you, sir," i said gratefully, disappearing promptly before he had time to change his mind.

what an afternoon i had, to be sure. i wandered right out of the town through tangled paths crowded on either side by the loveliest flowers growing wild i had ever dreamed of. i was like a boy in a dream now, except for that haunting reality "sigs o'clog." and, to crown my pleasures, when i had strayed as far as i dared, i came suddenly upon a pretty villa in an open glade, the house itself being embowered in the most gorgeous blossoms. i went up to the back of the premises to beg a drink of water, which an amiable negress gave me with a beaming smile, squeezing into it a fresh-fallen lime with a large spoonful of white sugar. while i drank, a dear little white boy about five years old came running round the corner. when he saw me he stood for a moment as if petrified with astonishment; then, recovering his wits, darted back again. a kindly-faced man in white, with a big brown beard, then appeared, leading the little one. after a few inquiries he invited me into the house to tea, treating me with so much kindness that, between his attentions and those of his beautiful, weary-looking wife, i was several times upon the point of bursting into tears. she plied me with questions, soon getting all my sorrowful little life-story out of me; and more than once i saw her furtively wipe away a tear. the little son sat on my knee, great friends with me at once; and what with the good fare, the pleasant talk, and the comfort of it all, i forgot everything else in the world for a time. suddenly i caught sight of the clock. it was a quarter to six. i must have looked terrified, for my host, mr. mackenzie, asked me with much solicitude whether i felt suddenly ill. as soon as he heard the cause of my alarm he left the house, returning to the front in a minute or two with a beautiful mule and a smart trap. i took a hurried leave of my kind hostess and her child, promising to come again if i could; and presently found myself bowling along a level road at a great rate behind the swift hybrid, who seemed to glide rather than trot. arriving at the boat, nearly half an hour late, we found the mate not yet there, one of the boat-boys volunteering the information that he was well[38] drunk up at the rum-mill. "that being so," said mr. mackenzie, "i will see you on board." so we shoved off for the ship. during our short transit i told my new friend how matters stood between my uncle and myself, begging him not to inadvertently make matters worse for me. he promised to be discreet. we reached the ship and climbed on board. i fled forrard on the instant, while he interviewed the old man. whatever passed between them in their few minutes' talk, i don't know; i heard no more of the affair. but i was never again allowed on shore while i belonged to the arabella. the mate came on board quietly and turned in, no word reaching us forrard of any trouble about his little flutter.