charleston, september 27, 1898.—it is high tide, and three o'clock in the afternoon when we leave the battery quay; the ebb carries us off shore, and as captain huntly has hoisted both main and top sails, the northerly breeze drives the chancellor briskly across the bay. fort sumter ere long is doubled, the sweeping batteries of the mainland on our left are soon passed, and by four o'clock the rapid current of the ebbing tide has carried us through the harbor mouth.
but as yet we have not reached the open sea we have still to thread our way through the narrow channels which the surge has hollowed out amongst the sand-banks. the captain takes a southwest course, rounding the lighthouse at the corner of the fort; the sails are closely trimmed; the last sandy point is safely coasted, and at length, at seven o'clock in the evening, we are out free upon the wide atlantic.
the chancellor is a fine square-rigged three-master, of 900 tons burden, and belongs to the wealthy liverpool firm of laird brothers. she is two years old, is sheathed and secured with copper, her decks being of teak, and the base of all her masts, except the mizzen, with all their fittings, being of iron. she is registered first class, a1, and is now on her third voyage between charleston and liverpool. as she wended her way through the channels of charleston harbor, it was the british flag that was lowered from her mast-head; but without colors at all, no sailor could have hesitated for a moment in telling her nationality,—for english she was, and nothing but english from her water-line upward to the truck of her masts.
i must now relate how it happens that i have taken my passage on board the chancellor on her return voyage to england.
at present there is no direct steamship service between south carolina and great britain, and all who wish to cross must go either northward to new york or southward to new orleans. it is quite true that if i had chosen a start from new york i might have found plenty of vessels belonging to english, french, or hamburg lines, any of which would have conveyed me by a rapid voyage to my destination; and it is equally true that if i had selected new orleans for my embarkation i could readily have reached europe by one of the vessels of the national steam navigation company, which join the french transatlantic line of colon and aspinwall. but it was fated to be otherwise.
one day, as i was loitering about the charleston quays, my eye lighted on this vessel. there was something about the chancellor that pleased me, and a kind of involuntary impulse took me on board, where i found the internal arrangements perfectly comfortable. yielding to the idea that a voyage in a sailing vessel had certain charms beyond the transit in a steamer, and reckoning that with wind and wave in my favor there would be little material difference in time; considering, moreover, that in these low latitudes the weather in early autumn is fine and unbroken, i came to my decision, and proceeded forthwith to secure my passage by this route to europe.
have i done right or wrong? whether i shall have reason to regret my determination is a problem to be solved in the future. however, i will begin to record the incidents of our daily experience, dubious as i feel whether the lines of my chronicle will ever find a reader.
