before leaving the magistrate's estancia i had made up my mind to return by the shortest route, and as quickly as possible, to montevideo; and that morning, mounted on a well-rested horse, i covered a great deal of ground. by twelve o'clock, when i stopped to rest my horse and get some refreshment at a wayside pulpería, i had got over about eight leagues. this was travelling at an imprudent pace, of course; but in the banda orientál it is so easy to pick up a fresh horse that one becomes somewhat reckless. my journey that morning had taken me over the eastern portion of the durazno district, and i was everywhere charmed with the beauty of the country, though it was still very dry, the grass on the higher lands being burnt to various shades of yellow and brown. now, however, the summer heats were over, for the time was near the end of february; the temperature, without being oppressive, was deliciously warm, so that travelling on horseback was delightful. i might fill dozens of pages with descriptions of pretty bits of country i passed that day, but must plead guilty of an unconquerable aversion to this kind of writing. after this candid confession, i hope the reader will not quarrel with me for the omission; besides, anyone who cares for these things, and knows how evanescent are the impressions left by word pictures on the mind, can sail the seas and gallop round the world to see them all for himself. it is not, however, every wanderer from england—i blush while saying it—who can make himself familiar with the home habits, the ways of thought and speech, of a distant people. bid me discourse of lowly valley, lofty height, of barren waste, shady wood, or cooling stream where i have drunk and been refreshed; but all these places, pleasant or dreary, must be in the kingdom called the heart.
after getting some information about the country i had to traverse from the pulpero, who told me that i would probably reach the river yí before evening, i resumed my journey. about four o'clock in the afternoon i came to an extensive wood of thorn-trees, of which the pulpero had spoken, and, in accordance with his instructions, i skirted it on the eastern side. the trees were not large, but there was an engaging wildness about this forest, full of the musical chatter of birds, which tempted me to alight from my horse and rest for an hour in the shade. taking the bit from his mouth to let him feed, i threw myself down on the dry grass under a clump of shady thorns, and for half an hour watched the sparkling sunlight falling through the foliage overhead, and listened to the feathered people that came about me, loudly chirping, apparently curious to know what object had brought me to their haunts. then i began to think of all the people i had recently mixed with: the angry magistrate and his fat wife—horrid woman!—and marcos marcó, that shabby rascal, rose up before me to pass quickly away, and once more i was face to face with that lovely mystery margarita. in imagination i put forth my hands to take hers, and drew her towards me so as to look more closely into her eyes, vainly questioning them as to their pure sapphire hue. then i imagined or dreamt that with trembling fingers i unbraided her hair to let it fall like a splendid golden mantle over her mean dress, and asked her how she came to possess that garment of glory. the sweet, grave, child lips smiled, but returned no answer. then a shadowy face seemed to shape itself dimly against the green curtain of foliage, and, looking over the fair girl's shoulder, gaze sadly into my eyes. it was the face of paquíta. ah, sweet wife, never let the green-eyed monster trouble the peace of your heart! know that the practical saxon mind of your husband is puzzling itself over a purely scientific problem, that this surpassingly fair child interests me only because her fairness seems to upset all physiological laws. i was, in fact, just sinking to sleep at this moment when the shrill note of a trumpet blown close by and followed by loud shouts from several voices made me spring instantly to my feet. a storm of answering shouts came from another quarter of the wood, then followed profound silence. presently the trumpet sounded again, making me feel very much alarmed. my first impulse was to spring on to my horse and ride away for dear life; but, on second thoughts, i concluded that it would be safer to remain concealed amongst the trees, as by leaving them i should only reveal myself to the robbers or rebels, or whatever they were. i bridled my horse so as to be ready to run, then drew him into a close thicket of dark-foliaged bushes and fastened him there. the silence that had fallen on the wood continued, and at last, unable to bear the suspense longer, i began to make my way cautiously, revolver in hand, towards the point the sounds had proceeded from. stealing softly through the bushes and trees where they grew near together, i came at length in sight of an open piece of ground, about two or three hundred yards wide, and overgrown with grass. near its border on one side i was amazed to see a group of about a dozen boys, their ages ranging from about ten to fifteen, all standing perfectly motionless. one of them held a trumpet in his hand, and they all wore red handkerchiefs or rags tied round their heads. suddenly, while i crouched amongst the leafage watching them, a shrill note sounded from the opposite side of the open space, and another troop of boys wearing white on their heads burst from the trees and advanced with loud shouts of vivas and mueras towards the middle of the ground. again the red heads sounded their trumpet, and went out boldly to meet the new-comers. as the two bands approached each other, each led by a big boy, who turned at intervals and with many wild gestures addressed his followers, apparently to encourage them, i was amazed to see them all suddenly draw out long knives, such as the native horsemen usually wear, and rush furiously together. in a moment they were mingled together in a desperate fight, uttering the most horrible yells, their long weapons glittering in the sunshine as they brandished them about. with such fury did they fight that in a few moments all the combatants lay stretched out on the grass, excepting three boys wearing the red badges. one of these bloodthirsty young miscreants then snatched up the trumpet and blew a victorious blast, while the other two shrieked an accompaniment of vivas and mueras. while they were thus occupied one of the white-headed boys struggled to his feet, and, snatching up a knife, charged the three reds with desperate courage. had i not been perfectly paralysed with amazement at what i had witnessed, i should then have rushed out to aid this boy in his forlorn attempt; but in an instant his three foes were on him and dragged him down to the ground. two of them then held him fast by the legs and arms, the other raised his long knife, and was just about to plunge it in the struggling captive's breast, when, uttering a loud yell, i sprang up and rushed at them. instantly they started up and fled screaming towards the trees in the greatest terror; and then, most wonderful thing of all, the dead boys all came to life, and, springing to their feet, fled from me after the others. this brought me to a stand, when, seeing that one of the boys limped painfully after his companions, hopping on one leg, i made a sudden dash and captured him before he could reach the shelter of the trees.
“oh, señor, do not kill me!” he pleaded, bursting into tears.
“i have no wish to kill you, you unspeakable young miscreant, but i think i ought to thrash you,” i answered, for, though greatly relieved at the turn things had taken, i was excessively annoyed at having experienced all those sensations of blood-curdling horror for nothing.
“we were only playing at whites and reds,” he pleaded.
i then made him sit down and tell me all about this singular game.
none of the boys lived very near, he said; some of them came a distance of several leagues, and they had selected this locality for their sports on account of its seclusion, for they did not like to be found out. their game was a mimic war of whites and reds, manoeuvres, surprises, skirmishes, throat-cutting, and all.
i pitied the young patriot at the last, for he had sprained his ankle badly and could scarcely walk, and so assisted him to the spot where his horse was hidden; then, having helped him to mount and given him a cigarette, for which he had the impudence to ask me, i laughingly bade him good-bye. i went back to look for my own horse after that, beginning to feel very much amused at the whole thing; but, alas! my steed was gone. the young scoundrels had stolen him, to revenge themselves on me, i suppose, for disturbing them; and to relieve me from all doubt in the matter they left two bits of rag, one white and the other red, attached to the branch i had fastened the bridle to. for some time i wandered about the wood, and even shouted aloud in the wild hope that the young fiends were not going to carry things so far as to leave me without a horse in that solitary place. nothing could i see or hear of them, however, and as it was getting late and i wasbecoming desperately hungry and thirsty, i resolved to go in search of some habitation.
on emerging from the forest i found the adjacent plain covered with cattle quietly grazing. any attempt to pass through the herd would have been almost certain death, as these more than half-wild beasts will always take revenge on their master man when they catch him dismounted in the open. as they were coming up from the direction of the river, and were slowly grazing past the wood, i resolved to wait for them to pass on before leaving my concealment. i sat down and tried to be patient, but the brutes were in no hurry, and went on skirting the wood at a snail's pace. it was about six o'clock before the last stragglers had left, and then i ventured out from my hiding-place, hungry as a wolf and afraid of being overtaken by night before finding any human habitation. i had left the trees half a mile behind me, and was walking hurriedly along towards the valley of the yí, when, passing over a hillock, i suddenly found myself in sight of a bull resting on the grass and quietly chewing his cud. unfortunately the brute saw me at the same moment and immediately stood up. he was, i think, about three or four years old, and a bull of that age is even more dangerous than an older one; for he is quite as truculent as the other and far more active. there was no refuge of any kind near, and i knew very well that to attempt to escape by running would only increase my danger, so after gazing at him for a few moments i assumed an easy, unconcerned manner and walked on; but he was not going to be taken in that way, and began to follow me. then for the first, and i devoutly hope for the last, time in my life i was compelled to resort to the gaucho plan, and, casting myself face downwards on the earth, lay there simulating death. it is a miserable, dangerous expedient, but, in the circumstances i found myself, the only one offering a chance of escape from a very terrible death. in a few moments i heard his heavy tramp, then felt him sniffing me all over. after that he tried unsuccessfully to roll me over, in order to study my face, i suppose. it was horrible to endure the prods he gave me and lie still, but after a while he grew quieter, and contented himself by simply keeping guard over me; occasionally smelling at my head, then turning round to smell at my heels. probably his theory was, if he had one, that i had fainted with fear at the sight of him and would recover presently, but he was not quite sure at which end of me returning life would first show itself. about once in every five or six minutes he seemed to get impatient, and then he would paw me with his heavy hoof, uttering a low, hoarse moaning, spattering me with froth from his mouth; but as he showed no disposition to leave, i at last resolved to try a very bold experiment, for my position was becoming unendurable. i waited till the brute's head was turned from me, then worked my hand cautiously down to my revolver; but before i had quite drawn it, he noticed the movement and wheeled swiftly round, kicking my legs as he did so. just as he brought his head round close to mine, i discharged the weapon in his face, and the sudden explosion so terrified him that he turned tail and fled, never pausing in his lumbering gallop till he was out of sight. it was a glorious victory; and though i could scarcely stand on my legs at first, so stiff and bruised did i feel all over, i laughed with joy, and even sent another bullet whizzing after the retreating monster, accompanying the discharge with a wild yell of triumph.
after that i proceeded without further interruption on my walk, and, had i not felt so ravenously hungry and so sore where the bull had trod on me or prodded me with his horns, the walk would have been very enjoyable, for i was now approaching the yí. the ground grew moist and green, and flowers abounded, many of them new to me, and so lovely and fragrant that in my admiration for them i almost forgot my pain. the sun went down, but no house appeared in sight. over the western heavens flamed the brilliant hues of the afterglow, and from the long grass came the sad, monotonous trill of some night insect. troops of hooded gulls flew by me on their way from their feeding grounds to the water, uttering their long, hoarse, laughter-like cries. how buoyant and happy they seemed, flying with their stomachs full to their rest; while i, dismounted and supperless, dragged painfully on like a gull that had been left behind with a broken wing. presently, through the purple and saffron-hued vapours in the western sky, the evening star appeared, large and luminous, the herald of swift-coming darkness; and then—weary, bruised, hungry, baffled, and despondent—i sat down to meditate on my forlorn position.
